[CR]re: mounting jerseys for framing

(Example: History)

Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2005 08:41:55 -0700
From: "Christine and Derek Vandeberg" <frameref@digisys.net>
Organization: Frame of Reference
To: fatcogtom@comcast.net, "classicrendezvous@bikelist.org" <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
Subject: [CR]re: mounting jerseys for framing

At last, a question I'm eminently qualified to answer! Tom, I've owned an art gallery and picture framing business for the last eight years, and started framing 15 years ago, just about the time I left the bike industry. My wife and I currently teach at larger national trade shows, and have written for one of the main trade publications for the art and framing industry. I'll post some general guidelines here, but feel free to contact me off list if you want more specifics.

The most important thing to remember when mounting anything valuable for framing is NO GLUE. Repeat after me -- NO GLUE! Too many rare and precious items are ruined on a regular basis, often by "professional" framers who have no formal training, merely functional knowledge. As our society gets more and more litigious, folks in the art and framing industry are now being sued for work they did years ago, causing irreparable harm to art and or memorabilia. If your jersey is truly valuable, i.e. an old Molteni jersey still faintly smelling of Merckx sweat, then you really should consult a professional framer, one with training and experience. I can help you find one in your area, if you so desire.

If your pieces are sentimental, and you wish to tackle it for yourself, there are three things that will keep your jersey looking good for years. First, cut a form out of some stiff material -- 8-ply cotton rag matboard is best, acid free foamcore is okay, cardboard is a big no (too acidic, and will stain and deteriorate the jersey) -- that is roughly the shape of the jersey, but not so large as to stretch it. For mounting, it's best to stitch the jersey down, using a thread of like material. For wool jerseys, you can use cotton thread or embroidery floss; matching colors and concealing stitches in seams will hide most mounting. Avoid monofilament (fishing line) and polyester thread, as they are too "sharp" and will cut many vintage natural fibers. Stitch to an archival cotton rag or other conservation grade matboard, leaving a couple of inches around all sides, and after you think you're done, let it stand upright overnight to check for sagging. When putting the piece into a frame, if you're going to use glass (and you should to best preserve any textile) be certain to use a frame of sufficient depth so that you can use spacers to keep the glazing off of the jersey. Contact with the glazing will cause ghosting (fuzzy jersey shape transferred to the glass), and may promote water damage and mold growth with changes in heat and humidity. Spacers can be fashioned out of strips of matboard or foamcore, narrow pieces of wood finished to match your frame, or commercial acrylic strips made in various depths, especially for this purpose. Again, if you've got something valuable, consider ultraviolet filtered glazing, and consider acrylic -- not styrene like you can get at the hardware store, but true museum grade acrylic -- Cyro OP3AR is our choice for maximum conservation -- UV filtering and abrasion resistant, so it doesn't scratch the second you turn your back.

Two more thoughts, no, wait, three. First, unless your jersey is purely sentimental, try and avoid sandwiching it between two pieces of glass. I know people like the look, but it's akin to putting your Rene Herse in your front window so everyone can see it -- the jersey will slowly "cook" in the glass, just like the paint will fade in the window. Next, there's a company in California called Superior Plastics that makes jersey hangers and full acrylic cases for display -- no stitching required. Last, if you have objects -- medals, that mint GS derailleur, whatever -- that you want to place in a frame, don't use glue or silicone here, either. You can either stitch objects down, or fashion mounts using brass or stainless rod stock, padded with tool dip or heat shrink tubing.

Sorry for the length. It's a subject I am as passionate about as bicycles. I'm happy to answer any questions off line, and at the risk of shamelessly plugging myself, we ship framed pieces throughout the country, as much of our client base merely summers here in Bigfork.

Best of luck with your project, Tom!

Regards,
Derek Vandeberg
Frame of Reference, Bigfork, Montana
mailto:frameref@digisys.net