Thanks for all the advice, esp Derek's professional opinion.
I do want to tackle this myself. If I go to a framer it will run $200 plus for each jersey, and I can't afford that right now. But I can afford a trip to Michaels arts and crafts store in E-ville. I'm assuming they have acid free foamcore or the cotton rag matboard and mounting pins (or maybe I should go to a Gary larsen bug collector shop....).
Tom martin Oakland CA
> At last, a question I'm eminently qualified to answer! Tom, I've owned
> an art gallery and picture framing business for the last eight years,
> and started framing 15 years ago, just about the time I left the bike
> industry. My wife and I currently teach at larger national trade shows,
> and have written for one of the main trade publications for the art and
> framing industry. I'll post some general guidelines here, but feel free
> to contact me off list if you want more specifics.
>
> The most important thing to remember when mounting anything valuable for
> framing is NO GLUE. Repeat after me -- NO GLUE! Too many rare and
> precious items are ruined on a regular basis, often by "professional"
> framers who have no formal training, merely functional knowledge. As
> our society gets more and more litigious, folks in the art and framing
> industry are now being sued for work they did years ago, causing
> irreparable harm to art and or memorabilia. If your jersey is truly
> valuable, i.e. an old Molteni jersey still faintly smelling of Merckx
> sweat, then you really should consult a professional framer, one with
> training and experience. I can help you find one in your area, if you
> so desire.
>
> If your pieces are sentimental, and you wish to tackle it for yourself,
> there are three things that will keep your jersey looking good for
> years. First, cut a form out of some stiff material -- 8-ply cotton rag
> matboard is best, acid free foamcore is okay, cardboard is a big no (too
> acidic, and will stain and deteriorate the jersey) -- that is roughly
> the shape of the jersey, but not so large as to stretch it. For
> mounting, it's best to stitch the jersey down, using a thread of like
> material. For wool jerseys, you can use cotton thread or embroidery
> floss; matching colors and concealing stitches in seams will hide most
> mounting. Avoid monofilament (fishing line) and polyester thread, as
> they are too "sharp" and will cut many vintage natural fibers. Stitch
> to an archival cotton rag or other conservation grade matboard, leaving
> a couple of inches around all sides, and after you think you're done,
> let it stand upright overnight to check for sagging. When putting the
> piece into a frame, if you're going to use glass (and you should to best
> preserve any textile) be certain to use a frame of sufficient depth so
> that you can use spacers to keep the glazing off of the jersey. Contact
> with the glazing will cause ghosting (fuzzy jersey shape transferred to
> the glass), and may promote water damage and mold growth with changes in
> heat and humidity. Spacers can be fashioned out of strips of matboard
> or foamcore, narrow pieces of wood finished to match your frame, or
> commercial acrylic strips made in various depths, especially for this
> purpose. Again, if you've got something valuable, consider ultraviolet
> filtered glazing, and consider acrylic -- not styrene like you can get
> at the hardware store, but true museum grade acrylic -- Cyro OP3AR is
> our choice for maximum conservation -- UV filtering and abrasion
> resistant, so it doesn't scratch the second you turn your back.
>
> Two more thoughts, no, wait, three. First, unless your jersey is purely
> sentimental, try and avoid sandwiching it between two pieces of glass.
> I know people like the look, but it's akin to putting your Rene Herse in
> your front window so everyone can see it -- the jersey will slowly
> "cook" in the glass, just like the paint will fade in the window. Next,
> there's a company in California called Superior Plastics that makes
> jersey hangers and full acrylic cases for display -- no stitching
> required. Last, if you have objects -- medals, that mint GS derailleur,
> whatever -- that you want to place in a frame, don't use glue or
> silicone here, either. You can either stitch objects down, or fashion
> mounts using brass or stainless rod stock, padded with tool dip or heat
> shrink tubing.
>
> Sorry for the length. It's a subject I am as passionate about as
> bicycles. I'm happy to answer any questions off line, and at the risk
> of shamelessly plugging myself, we ship framed pieces throughout the
> country, as much of our client base merely summers here in Bigfork.
>
> Best of luck with your project, Tom!
>
> Regards,
> Derek Vandeberg
> Frame of Reference, Bigfork, Montana
> mailto:frameref@digisys.net