Howard Bishop wrote:
> So I'm wondering, what would be wrong with putting some
> anti-seize (such as for spark plugs) on crank cotters before
> installing, then maybe a drop of lock-tite on the nut.
> Wouldn't this help with regular servicing, or is there
> something obvious I'm missing?
Howard,
This is a frequent topic on this and other bicycle lists and newsgroups
- starts up a veritable holy war from time to time. I recommend you
search the CR archives, and also check out this from the
rec.bicycles.tech newsgroup FAQ:
http://draco.acs.uci.edu/
My own take it that since many people on both sides report having had no problems in "x" decades of doing it their way, then it can't be that big of a deal - either way works. I personally seem to notice more creaking noises from ungreased axle tapers, so I grease mine. Anti-seize would perhaps be even better but grease is always handy and works fine. Campy and other manufacturers have said to assemble them dry, but I have proven to my satisfaction that this is not necessary or desirable - greased works, possibly a little bit better than dry IMO.
Locktite on the nut (or bolt, in the more common [CR] case of hollow axles) is not needed in my experience and could cause problems later. Never tried it though; if you try it let us know how it worked out for you. I recommend using dust caps to keep the bolts from turning, and as Jobst says in the FAQ lined above, don't keep tightening the bolts - they naturally will be a bit looser after riding, but you must leave them that way. They are not looser from turning; it is because the cranks have squirmed a bit farther up the taper, balancing out the force between the bolt head and the taper. Continually tightening them runs the cranks too far up the tapers. This is true whether greased or dry.
Mark Bulgier
Seattle WA USA