RE: [CR]Medici Braze-On's Removal

(Example: Racing:Jacques Boyer)

Content-class: urn:content-classes:message
Subject: RE: [CR]Medici Braze-On's Removal
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 13:16:20 -0700
Thread-Topic: [CR]Medici Braze-On's Removal
Thread-Index: AcWVPT7Z1h6Zlsx/SCyU/J+due4/LAAAcnSQ
From: "Mark Bulgier" <>
To: "CHRISTOPHER ARKELL" <>, "classicrendezvous" <>

Chris Arkell asks:
> Is it possible to remove these braze-ons
> without inflicting damage to the original finish?

Sure, as long as you don't mean "no damage at all" - of course there will be paint missing right where the braze-on was.

I started typing the procedure, then realized this takes skillz and tools that few other than pro frame builders and refinishers will have, so I recommend bringing it to a pro.

The gist of it is, it is possible to file down the last little bit of the braze-on with needle files, stopping while there is still a micron of silver or brass covering the original steel, so as to be sure you didn't take any original steel off. Also it'll protect against rust.

Only the "footprint" of the braze-on will have any paint at all disturbed, and none of that will have steel showing.

The hardest part for a home mechanic to achieve will be holding the frame rigidly enough, without hurting the paint where it is clamped. Clamping a "donor" disposable seatpost in a vise might work but not well - too far away from the worksite. The flexibility of the frame will cause a lot of vibration where you're sawing/filing. Vibration will cause the tool to skitter around, gouging up paint and even thin steel tubing some distance away from the target. Try it on a gas pipe frame first if you want to risk it, but be aware a lightweight frame is even harder to hold rigidly enough. This is where the framebuilder has some tricks and tools you won't have.

-Mark Bulgier
Seattle WA USA