(Ted asked about gearing) First let me state that I'm still a novice at this and am learning as I go. My feeling has been that something in the range of 65-75 gear inches is a good place to start. I'm still working on technique, and while I don't bounce as much as I first did when pedalling furiously downhill, I find it's a gradual learning process.The building up (the bike, not me) process was easy for me as I snagged a whole box of various size sprockets from my parents club days in the 1950's, along with a 50-year old set of wheels with rear flip-flop airlite hub. I haven't had any trouble using the sprockets on the freewheel side (non-lockring) side of the wheel, but I also don't practice panic stops or heavy braking via the driveline. I currently have three bikes set up with fixed wheel. The 1942 Claud Butler has 700 wheels, and 50 by 20 gearing which comes out to around a 68-inch gear. I find this is great for getting around town. Next is a 1950's Viking, with 27" wheels and 46 by 16 gearing, which comes out to a 78-inch gear. This was the first one I set up, although I don't ride it much at the moment. Last is a 1960's / 1970's Italian frame (which I need help ID-ing) which is set up with 700 wheels, and 48 by 16 gearing, which comes out to an 81-inch gear. This one is a joy for going fast on rolling terrain...it's hard on the uphills, but it's geared high enough that 30mph+ downhills aren't a problem. Both the latter two bikes have flip-flop hubs, and I keep an extra (2 teeth smaller) sprocket on the freewheel side, figuring if I need to go faster I can stop and flip the wheel. Of some consideration are the pedals you use...you certainly don't want your feet to ever become detached. Toeclips should work great, although I use clipless pedals as this is what I've grown used to. I favor ATB-type pedals as they are two sided and mindless to get into and out of. I thought about using road type (Look) pedals (I use these on my OT road bikes) but figured the ATB pedals were easier to get into (no worry about whether the pedal is upside down or not). I've had one mishap as a result of not having the pedals adjusted tight enough...going up a hill at quite a clip, standing up in the saddle and pulling hard, my right foot pulled out of the pedal on the upstroke. On a freewheel bike this would be no big deal, but on fixed wheel, once you have a head of steam going it's harder to stop pedalling, particularly with only one leg in the pedals. Bike went sideways and I was thrown off...dinged up handlebars, brake lever and bruised shoulder. Probably looked quite odd to bystanders (why on earth was that guy thrown off his bike like that?) but I don't think anyone saw it happen. Other than that no problems. One of the great joys of fixed wheel (apart from riding it) is the ease with which you can set up a vintage bike. No fancy gears or other components to hunt down, if need be you can get by with just a front brake...in short it's a great way to ride those old bikes without having to acquire a lot of period stuff. Of course, I'm sure some would disagree with this utilitarian approach, but I figure as long as you don't do anything irreversible to the bike, and look after it, the bike is going to love you for taking it out each day... Michael Davies St Louis
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