[CR]Steel and chrome preservation


From: "Greg" <gtsoftley@ozemail.com.au>
To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2006 18:10:59 +1100
Subject: [CR]Steel and chrome preservation

I thought I would wait until you all mummified your precious steel in schmaltz, cotton and shellac before giving the list the 'heads up' in bike preservation. We (that is myself and the enlightened ones) use a product in Australia called 'Lanotec' which is a mixture of lanolin oil and penetrating oil (works like fish or snake oil) in an aerosol spray can. Okay, sounds too easy, well this lanolin oil has a history to it. In the 'bush', in sheep shearing sheds, metal fixtures and tools have survived for over 150 years - outside, away from the lanolin that fleeces contain, the same items rust. You can spray this stuff on just about anything except rubber and plastic. Within frame tubes, the penetrating oils wick into the tightest cracks and brazing imperfections and forms a wax like coating that CLINGS. On paint and chrome, same deal - spray it on and a wipe with some cotton and all traces seem to disappear, but a thin film remains which provides adequate protection. When it dries, a fine wax- like surface coating is there, but a quick rub with a dry cotton rag and the film disappears and it looks like the paint/chrome has just been waxed and polished. Leave it for a couple of weeks, the same wax like coating has re-appeared and will protect your bike until you give it another polish. On polished alloy, especially hand polished rims - it works brilliantly - stops the oxidisation in its tracks. This stuff can always be totally removed with some hardware sourced grease and wax remover. Word of warning - don't spray it into your freewheel - the springs and pawls don't like wax. And one small drawback - this stuff has a smell about it. If you like the smell of sheep - no problem (rumour has it that Kiwi sheep farmers use it as aftershave). Doesn't do leather saddles any harm either. Speaking of leather saddles - if the leather is in any way, shape or form dry, before you apply your fave treatment, re-hydrate the saddle first. Find a leather worker and get the brown liquid gunk they use and if your saddle is really dry - flood it, even underneath between the backing piece and the saddle upper. Let it soak in overnight in a cupboard - then Dubbin away. Check the results! Oh yes - looking for a Bi-valent hubset, complete and in good shape, prefer without rims. Contact me off list. Greg Softley Tropical and wet Coffs Harbour Australia