Its is without a doubt easier and fewer functional compromises to use a longer cage RD. It's really a matter of how important using the original RD is to you.
Jerry Moos Big Spting, TX
Ken Freeeman <email@example.com> wrote: You're identifying the factors I saw as compromises. I wanted full shift capability, and the Mondonico has short dropouts that do not allow much adjustment. I put on an early Chorus (OT?), and it handles the 28 just fine, full range.
Ken Freeman Ann Arbor, MI
-----Original Message----- From: firstname.lastname@example.org [mailto:email@example.com] On Behalf Of Jerome & Elizabeth Moos Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2006 2:53 PM To: Marie VanRemortel; firstname.lastname@example.org Subject: RE: [CR]Skipping chain
28T is tricky, but I've done it lots of times. You do often have to accept that the large-large and small-small combos are totally unusuable. Chainstay length and dropouts are a factor also. Works best with long DO's and/or the wheel pushed to the back of the DO. On a Trek 660 with Campy short DO's, I had to remove the adjustable wheel stops altogether to get it to work.
Jerry Moos Just back from a ride on the 1972 Falcon San Remo, NR RD, Regina 14-28.
Marie VanRemortel wrote: Ken, 28 is pushing it with a NR, I just went with the Rally, first or second generation versions (looks like a early Crane) would work and looks sweet. They have them on eBay all the time, a new one in the box sold last week for $100 and it wasn't a buy it now : ) Regards, Bruce VanRemortel Wallhalben, GE Eisentraut Lover Spring is coming but it isn't here today... ___________________________
After reading numerous posts about how one can use a 28T cog with a SR or NR derailleur, I decided to try it on my Mondonico with an NR. After numerous variations of chain length and wheel position in the dropout, I gave up and put on a higher capacity (not on topic) derailleur. Every step forward had a price. Perhaps Campy had accurate part ratings, and perhaps a good shop (are you referring to Assenmacher's?) has some more tricks, but I didn't see where they are. Anyway, it's back in riding condition, so I'm happy.
I did have some chain skip issues on 7-speed freewheels, but I think my chains have been too wide, and the derailleur feathering was too sensitive. Narrower (unmentionable!) chains have helped a lot.
Consult the masters! Go for a bike ride.
Ken Freeman Ann Arbor, MI
-----Original Message----- From: email@example.com [mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org] On Behalf Of Tom Sanders Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2006 7:00 AM To: email@example.com Subject: [CR]Skipping chain
I hate to jump in here, not being the most mechanical guy on the list...I
would say I'm somewhere near the 1475th least mechanical, in fact.
However, if you are running a large cog with an older derailleur (say a 28
tooth with a Super Record) and your skipping is on the smallest cog it may
just be that you have had to run so much chain on that larger cog that all
you need to do is move your wheel more to the rear. Simple fix if it
works...if one really wants to get into the more complex stuff like
experimenting with grinding on the teeth on the freewheel I have an even
simpler fix...this involves taking the dratted thing to my buddy's bike shop
and letting his 40 years of experience come to the fore while I drink coffee
and shoot the bull with the guys there...a lot less frustrating to me and
often even cheaper than me getting in over my head. I sure am lucky to have
such a resource!
I realize that there are folks who really enjoy knotty mechanical
problems...I sure am not among them. :^) Guys like Dennis Young (who pours
his own Babbitt Bearings!) really fill me with awe.