Here's one perspective on how much to torque vintage cranks: I'll suggest that the manufacturer's tools had features that limited the torque you could comfortably apply. The Stronglight tool was a peculiar hex socket, turned by a 15 cm x 7.5 mm soft steel bar. Overtorque it and the bar bends. Yup, self-limiting. But even more clever is the family of "peanut butter" wrenches from TA, Campgranola, and aftermarket sources. All had about 15 cm of lever, and all had narrow, rather square-edged "blades" 3 - 4 mm thick. When you try too hard, the hand hurts. Great feedback. Now, I don't generally use these tools - a propoer socket feels better - but I keep those tools in mind, and avoid too much torque.
But, I always recheck the tightness after 30 - 50 miles of riding.
harvey sachs mcLean VA. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I never use a torque wrench on a bicycle. I just can't visualize Fausto's or Gino's or Eddy's mechanics doing that. Tighten to remove all play, then stop. Don't know what Stronglight recommends, but I highly recommend a VERY light film of grease. My usual method is to wipe the grease off my fingers (I've usually been greasing the bearings just before installing the BB axle) with a rag, then rub the small amount of residual grease remaining on my fingers onto the tapers. The ponit is, you don't want to heavily grease tapers as it causes you to drive the arms on further, enlarging the hole. But Stronglight cranks need at least a thin film of lubrication to avoid seizing. Maybe some high tech anti-seize will do as well, I just never felt the need for it.
Stronglight cranks are softer than Campy, which is why they don't crack like Campy NR infamously do. The downside is, they are also more susceptible to seizing. Having hammered seized Strongligh cranks someone installed totally dry off the axle, I highly recommend some anti-seize measure.
Regards,
Jerry Moos
Big Spring, TX