That's it. SRAM disowns any chain that has it's pins pushed about by end users including shops. Other manufacturers as well, for good reason. Even Shimano chains can have a tight link after installing their special pins (an absolute requirement) so I use a slotted piece of .010 (.25mm) shim stock between the sideplates before pressing, then flex the chain and pull the shim out. The shim came with one of the former (and ultralight) FinishLine chain tools and is a precious addition to my toolbox. These cute little anodized tools are now kind of rare. Most newer chains have little flanges staked into the ends of the link pins, and these are usually made to fracture cleanly off when a pin is pushed out, preventing damage (enlargement) to the holes in the side plates. Most modern chains must use connecting links or tend to pull apart, quite readily I might add when used with a triple or shifted under load. Please inspect your repair to see if any peened edge flanging has broken free of the pin, and if so do not use. It's readily apparent with a small magnifying glass. A note of warning: The PC58 may be one of the last chains that doesn't use the "brittle staked pin flange" design, and I've heard of many users who have re-connected them sans any special link, but times are changing and their newest 880 and 990 model chains have adopted all the visible Shimano design criteria. I'm assuming this subject is sufficiently on-topic as so many of us use such modern consumables on our classic lightweights. I couldn't be happier with the way modern chains track my Nuovo Record friction-shifted Uniglide freewheels and pre-1984 cassettes, well better than provided by the early indexing efforts of Suntour or Campy imo.
David Snyder
Auburn, CA usa
>I was a little distracted, and on one of my bikes I decided to replace an
>old chain with one of those SRAM's that worked well for me on another bike
>last week. I accidentally cut the chain one link too tight so I had to add
>a link. For about ten minutes I couldn't get that link to loosen up. I
>tried all the normal tricks of wiggling, screwdrivering, repeated chain
>tool futzing back and forth and back and forth. Finally I did get it loose
>but what a hassle. I think these SRAMS are a little different from other
>chains. Once you cut it, it's hard to replace a pin. It's meant to work
>with the powerlink attachment in place of driving in the old pin.
>
> Garth Libre in Miami Fl.