Re: [CR]a Raleigh rebuild

(Example: Production Builders:Teledyne)

Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 22:20:38 -0400
From: "gabriel l romeu" <romeug@comcast.net>
To: dddd <dddd@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [CR]a Raleigh rebuild
References: <45108C91.7050206@comcast.net> <007401c6dc53$11af8670$4001a8c0@compaq>
In-Reply-To: <007401c6dc53$11af8670$4001a8c0@compaq>
cc: Classic Rendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>

Rumor was that the aux brake levers were unsafe back in the days, I will

think about those but probably remove them. I think for the time being I will keep the shifters on and promise an 'upgrade' next spring when he

wants it. It will be a good opportunity to show him how to adjust the brakes, deraillieurs, etc.

It is quite attractive actually. white, with the headtube orange cut under the lugs.

btw, it lost the kickstand, chainwheel chainguard, reflectors and I am trying to figure out some sort of replacement pedals- I have some semblance of propriety.

dddd wrote:
> It would be my preference to keep this bike stock. Especially as an
> even slightly-too-short rider might find the upright hand position
> (complete with nearby brakes and shifters at the ready) to his liking.
> My first 10-speed was an orange Raleigh Record bought in 1971. Had
> steel rims, bars and hubs, Milremo stem, altenberger Synchron calipers
> and I think safety levers too. I won my first Junior race on it in
> 1976, o'er the hill of Yorktown Heights, NY. I now have 6 Raleighs
> (Pro, Competition, Grand Sports, Super Course, a 753-tubed Technium and
> an Al-tubed one also). My Record had very long Huret stem shifters, al l
> the better for learning to ride friction.
> I've always been able to get auxiliary brake levers working crisply.
> Sometimes takes some work, but in the end I achieve solid braking with
> an acceptable adjustment interval. If the rims are less than perfect,
> the lever throw can be increased by nibbling a little metal from the
> front edge of the lever body, so the lever can return a little further.
> I toss the serrated washer and secure the screws with Loctite. This
> reduces freeplay at the pivot.
> If you really want the aux levers gone, the pivot pin can be sawn flush
> with the lever body. It's secured by the clamp bolt and won't drift out .
> My other Brit-bikes are (2) Viscount "Aerospace Sport" (22" and 24") an d
> a 22-1/2" Holdsworth "Special".
>
> David Snyder
> Auburn, CA usa
>

--
gabriel l romeu
chesterfield nj USA
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