I've always had good luck with a product called Spoke-Be-Gone®. Comes in a small can with a marvelous applicator brush built into the
lid itself, very handy indeed. You apply to the broken spoke and also any small wire tying the spoke and within minutes actually the offending spoke disappears along with any bits of wire and solder. Beyond miraculous!
Be sure to read the warnings (seemingly endless) printed on the side of the little can. The consequences of ignoring these apparently can
be quite dire!!!
Chuck Schmidt South Pasadena, CA USA
On Dec 20, 2006, at 10:00 AM, Art Link wrote:
> Heat the solder and remove the wire wrap.Use small wire snips.Hope
> you can use the original nipple,it may be a 3/4 " long one. Art
> Link,San Antonio,TX
>
> dan polito <thepandle@hotmail.com> wrote: From: "dan polito"
> <thepandle@hotmail.com>
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2006 12:31:55 -0500
> Subject: [CR]replacing spoke on tied/sodered wheel
>
> list-
> i have an set of campy track wheels, and the rear in question is
> tied and
> soldered. i broke a spoke after hitting a pot hole, and need to
> replace it.
> the renegade spoke, obviously, is still tied to its mate. what's
> the best
> way of going about replacing it? do i need to heat up the solder
> again to
> take it off, or is there some solvent that will get rid of it?
>
> also, the hub is laced to a scheeren weltmeister (wooden core)
> tubular rim.
> in case i need to replace the nipple, what approximate nippile
> length should
> i use? i am assuming that these rims need longer than usual nipples.
>
> thanks,
> dan polito
> cleveland, oh
>
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Chuck Schmidt
South Pasadena, Southern California
United States of America
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