Re: [CR]replacing spoke on tied/sodered wheel

(Example: Events:Cirque du Cyclisme:2002)

Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2006 09:21:35 -0600
From: "John Thompson" <JohnThompson@new.rr.com>
To: CR RENDEZVOUS <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
Subject: Re: [CR]replacing spoke on tied/sodered wheel
References: <6FA11A21-E71E-4248-AF88-FD966F714C52@earthlink.net> <3.0.6.32.20061220151627.00883e30@mailhost.oxford.net>
In-Reply-To: <3.0.6.32.20061220151627.00883e30@mailhost.oxford.net>


John Betmanis wrote:
> At 02:52 PM 12/20/06 -0500, Bingham, Wayne wrote:
>
>> The other method is a product
>> called Solder Wick, which is essentially braided copper wire that is
>> used to "wick" or lift the molten solder off the desired parts.
> These are things that a serious electronics tech or hobbyist might have
> around, but I've always resorted to cruder methods myself. For this
> application I'd use a propane torch to melt the solder and then smartly rap
> the rim on the edge of the bench or something. Be careful withthe flame
> because it doesn't take a lot to melt the solder. This may have to be
> repeated a couple of times before enough solder is gone to snip and peel
> back the wire. A puff of compressed air also works to blow away the solder.
> If you use a soldering iron instead of a torch, some flux on the joint and
> fresh solder on the iron helps.

FWIW, a solder wick doesn't need to be copper; steel works just as well. Try an old piece of brake cable as a wick -- works fine for me.

--

-John Thompson (john@os2.dhs.org)
Appleton WI USA