It's Ted. No not the charter member; the "chatter member". I almost chimed in on the thread about lubing bicycle parts with bacon grease (as it was right up my alley) but refrained from doing so as I was certain I would receive a warning. I once lubed an upright band-saw with peanut oil and the blade broke!
Couple of things about the other Ted's (the "charter member's") post:
I am trying to imagine using a glove to stop a bicycle. Now when you reach down to press on the tire I assume you are putting your hand on the area of the tire in front of the fork crown right? Also, what kind of glove did you use to use? I tried "gloving" with a baseball mitt this past summer. And had I been in shape I probably would have been able to stop the bicycle. Instead, I burned a hole in the glove and had to drag both feet on the ground all the while trying to hold myself up so as I wouldn't damage the "family jewels."
The first I ever heard of gloving was about a year ago in this post from an esteemed rider by the name of Ty Doleman. I found the post here in the archives:
http://search.bikelist.org/
Ted E. Baer
where "the gloves are off" and it's a rainin' buckets
in
Palo Alto, CA
> Ted said:
>
> "The rear bridges also are not that strong, so it's
> nicer to put /make
> up a clamp arrangement that that won't squeeze your
> seatstays and do
> damage.
> I don't think I would ride a fully restored vintage
> frameset and bolt on
> frame clamps, etc. to ride around on."
>
> Ted is right. I machined up a rear clamp for my Pop
> Brennan. It was a
> complete custom fit, wrapping around all the way
> around the stays, right
> beneath the bridge etc. Well a year later, about
> 1994, the stay
> detached. I brought it down to Irvington, NJ, jigged
> it up and Bill
> Brennan (Pop's son) brazed it. The shop closed soon
> after as I suppose
> Bill was in his 80's and the neighborhood was a tad
> rough.
>
> Buy a Frejus. Stout fork and drilled. A great track
> bike for the road.
>
> By the way, lots of great track bikes came with
> drilled forks. Sieber,
> an option on Paramount.
>
> Joe Bender-Zanoni
> Great Notch, NJ
>
> ernst wrote:
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "ternst"
> <ternst1@cox.net>
> > To: "Elizabeth & Warren" <warbetty@eastlink.ca>
> > Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 5:36 PM
> > Subject: Re: [CR]Stopping a fixed gear in Ted's
> day.
> >
> >
> >> Ok guys and gals, here's the skinny "when WE used
> to ride" hah!.
> >> First: Be careful on putting brakes on the front
> round blade forks
> >> and how hard you stop.
> >> Not all those old forks have design line crowns
> and the round blades
> >> will flex somewhat more than the oval road blades
> and remember that's
> >> why they put the uneven line on the lugs to break
> up the stress riser
> >> lines.
> >> Putting a road fork in is not that bad an idea if
> you use the bike a
> >> lot.
> >> The rear bridges also are not that strong, so
> it's nicer to put /make
> >> up a clamp arrangement that that won't squeeze
> your seatstays and do
> >> damage.
> >> I don't think I would ride a fully restored
> vintage frameset and bolt
> >> on frame clamps, etc. to ride around on.
> >> Learn how to glove your wheel and ride for show
> and around on flatter
> >> ground. It would be a shame to damage a primo
> bike by putting brakes on.
> >> Warren's finder CCM on "E" is nice and those
> brakes work?
> >> Those old contraptions some times can be adjusted
> to stop fair, but
> >> remember kiddies, the hard core riders grin and
> tell you brakes are
> >> only to moderate , modulate, and slightly control
> speed, they are not
> >> there to stop.
> >> What the hell, you some kinda sissy? Snicker, or
> so say the hotshots
> >> when pulling beginner's legs.
> >> Back to the track. I keep getting side anecdoted.
> >> By the way, 50x16 is 25x8 or an 88" gear as we
> used to measure with
> >> 28" wheelchart. That was a most popular gear for
> average fixed
> >> racing. 26x8 was for the good guys on road, and
> the team race and
> >> six-day gear of choice, which was called 91. The
> sprinters used
> >> 25,24,23x7 which had more leverage from
> chainwheel
> >> to crank end so had a slightly quicker jump, but
> not the rolling of
> >> the larger chainwheels for longer distance races.
> The smaller CW's
> >> "died" sooner and you had to push a little harder
> to keep them
> >> rolling than the big chainwheel that rolled
> longer and it was just a
> >> little easier in the team and mass start long
> events.
> >> First you need to get nice heavier duty gloves so
> they don't wear
> >> through too fast. Best to use two so you become
> ambidextrous, just in
> >> case.
> >> You stop the front wheel with your glove and a
> firm flat palm/hand
> >> which is forced down on TOP of the front tire
> with the pressure to
> >> stop as you need by placing your forearm behind
> the bar , flat palm
> >> on tire, and the wedging/pushing your forearm
> against the bar like a
> >> lever and fulcrum.
> >> If you do it hard enough, you can lift your back
> wheel off the ground
> >> real easy if you practice it when standing next
> to your bike and
> >> executing the discipline correctly.
> >> At first you will have a little bruising or a
> soreness in your
> >> forearm, but pretty soon you toughen up and you
> get so hard you can
> >> eat brick ice cream and rock candy.
> >> Now as Popeye's playmates you are ready to ride
> faster and practice
> >> quicker stopping.
> >> Oh yeah, remember to loosen your toe strap before
> you start slowing
> >> so you can get your foot out and not fall down on
> your osteoporitic
> >> hip. That's why we never put the top of the strap
> in the loop so we
> >> could flik the strap open on the downstroke with
> our thumb just
> >> before we start our stopping.
> >> All you old fogies ain't getting any younger
> except in your mind and
> >> when you look at the Playboy calendar.
> >> As you start gloving the wheel, the reason you
> keep you hand flat is
> >> to prevent sidewall friction and wear on your
> sewup tires, too much
> >> rubbing and you could damage the sidewall casing.
> >> Rider's have grabbed the front wheel and locked
> in extreme cases for
> >> a panic situation.
> >> While gloving your wheel, it's important to slide
> your butt backwards
> >> on the bike proportionally to the intensity of
> braking.
> >> This keeps your balance better and puts weight on
> the back wheel so
> >> it doesn't skid as easily, because as your doing
> this you are gently
> >> back pedalling to resist the motion at the same
> time.
> >> It's the gloving and simultaneous backpedalling
> with backwheel weight
> >> done skilfully that gives you the quickstop!
> >> Your non-gloving wheel is steering and holding
> your body weight back
> >> on the saddle to balance you out, to make this
> tricky sounding
> >> manuver much easier and fluid. Guys with bigger
> butts could be called
> >> pearshaped like the guy in the old cartoon strip,
> but in our street
> >> parlance we referred to them as BA's
> >> After awhile it becomes psychosomatic, the
> braking that is.
> >> Like the guys in the plumbing shop two doors down
> from our bikestore
> >> used to tell us,(they were all fat, cigar smoking
> redneck kinda guys)
> >> as they always came out and kidded the riders
> when we had 10-12 guys
> >> out front on the sidewalk in their cycling attire
> going for training
> >> rides, that we all had size 60 chests and size 2
> hats.
> >> So bikes rider being notorious for not having any
> brains anyways or
> >> they wouldn't be riding bikes, could obviously do
> the track bike fast
> >> stopping without thought.
> >> You knew I could tie all this together, just like
> a bike race strategy.
> >> Yeah it always felt faster when wet, but gloving
> didn't work worth a
> >> damn in the rain, so we always sloed down in
> training, but when
> >> caught out in rain during a race you REALLY had
> to be careful on oil
> >> sliks, painted street letters/lines and stuff
> like that. Many a rider
> >> and bunches fall down go boom with track bikes
> because it was an
> >> accident waiting to happen. But it was fast and
> fun.
> >> Hope this gives a little better idea and trust
> youse all will chime
> >> in with a few of your war stories and we can have
> some timely
> >> timeline exchanges for our very own.
> >> There I go, right back to team race mode.
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Elizabeth &
> Warren"
> >> <warbetty@eastlink.ca>
> >> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> >> Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 3:03 PM
> >> Subject: Re: [CR]Stopping a fixed gear in Ted's
> day.
> >>
> >>
> >>> I think you really needed to develop that
> braking skill to survive.
> >>> Have a look at this original condition 30's CCM
> racer on ebay.
> >>>
> >>> #*http://tinyurl.com/yat8og
> >>>
> >>> *It came stock to the public with a 50 X 16
> fixed gear and those
> >>> Endricks are the rare Dunlops with 647 mm beads.
> (no replacement
> >>> tires there.) I think that's over 90 gear
> inches. Inagine the
> >>> potential horror when you flip the wheel over to
> ride the 18 tooth
> >>> freewheel and start downhill. Near certain-death
> on todays urban
> >>> streets.
> >>>
> >>> It has the rear Phillips boat-anchor brake of
> course. You just had
> >>> to heave it into the gutter and maybe it would
> catch a sewer grate.
> >>>
> >>> Warren Young
> >>> Wolfville NS.
> >>>
> >>> Kristopher Green wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Chuck Scmidt wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> One additional note here: you just know that
> if today's bike
> >>>> messengers knew about how the hard men (Ted's a
> Charter Memeber)
> >>>> braked the front tire with their hand back in
> the day, they'd be all
> >>>> over it.
> >>>>
> >>>> ______________
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Yup.
> >>>>
> >>>> http://tinyurl.com/
> >>>>
> >>>> Kristopher John Hicks-Green
> >>>> Olympia, Washington (State)
> >>>> United States of America
> >>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>> Classicrendezvous mailing list
> >>>> Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> >>>>
>
http://www.bikelist.org/
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
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> >>> Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> >>>
>
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> >>
> >
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> >
> >
>
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