[CR]Re: Aligning cottered crank arms

(Example: Framebuilding:Tubing)

From: "ternst" <ternst1@cox.net>
To: "Aldo Ross" <aldoross4@siscom.net>, "Bob Freitas" <freitas1@pacbell.net>, "CLASSIC RENDEZVOUS" <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
References: <45BCFB3C.5090601@pacbell.net> <001c01c74316$f3eee650$0200a8c0@D8XCLL51> <005401c7431c$0696a630$8217fbd1@Newhouse>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2007 18:18:26 -0800
reply-type=response
Subject: [CR]Re: Aligning cottered crank arms

Sheldon is correct, it is easy. Most peoples eyes are quite accurate and at first it's easier if you stand back and sightup one crank to the other and see how the line is. Usually a good arm's length is sufficient but until you get the "Eye Feel" for it, you may want to step back 5' + / - and see how the line is. Also, the nut with washer under it need only be snugged / tightened up enough to stay in place and act as a safety to keep pin in position should the pin loosen for some reason. When properly set, the pin should stay in by itself Mark is correct in that you can remove and drive in pins without support under the crank/ /spindle and maybe never have a mishap. But, from a sound mechanical position it's just good practice to do it with feeling and respect for your or your client's machine. Getting tight crank wedges / pins / cotters out is sometimes very tricky. That's a whole long post in itself. Next Time. Just think if the guy / gal comes in and sees you whaling away at the son of a bitch. Not a good example. In Chicago we used to call that type of work ethic as being a "hammer" mechanic. Not a compliment. In the old country in the '20's when my dad had his bicycle mechanic apprenticeship to become a journeyman, he said the Master Mechanic would have whacked any employee with the flat of his hand on the back of the guy's head for that kind of behaviour. The second time you were fired! There was no worshipping at the font of mediocrity. Isn't it nice to tell the customer if they see the job being done, we're supporting your crank and cups to protect the bearings and shell from possible damage. You will have a customer for life and that good will and word of mouth advertising is priceless! Technique and procedure are really important in any field, so I have a difficult time seeing incorrect work ethic. Sorry Mark, that's my take. I only write it to the entire list as I feel very strongly about it and wish to emphasize my philosophy and approach to our sport , hobby, and business.
Ted Ernst
Palos Verdes Estates
CA USA


----- Original Message -----
From: Aldo Ross
To: ternst


"CLASSIC RENDEZVOUS" <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 12:36 PM Subject: Re: Aligning cottered crank arms


> Hi Ted et al,
>
> One more question about cottered cranks - How do you judge the proper
> parallel alignment of the crank arms? I can visualize a special tool
> which aligns the pedal holes with the centerline of the bb spindle, but do
> you actually just eyeball-it? It's not easy to visually align three
> points in two different planes. Maybe you use a spirit level???
>
> Aldo Ross
> Middletown, OH
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ternst" <ternst1@cox.net>
> To: "Bob Freitas" <freitas1@pacbell.net>; "CLASSIC RENDEZVOUS"
> <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 3:00 PM
> Subject: Re: [CR]RE:Cotters
>
>
>>I have that little VAR tool. HEH-HEH.
>> And I use it, too.
>> All youse guys are collectively right on.
>> BUT no one mentioned that when when you file the flats to seat the pin
>> care must be taken.
>> The cranks should be parrallel / straight, not 5 minutes after 6.
>> You can adjust the crank angle by gently filing at the back or front /
>> top or bottom if you wish and changing the angle of the crank to match.
>> Gently seat them and keep filing the angle a little at a time to bring
>> them around.
>> If you file too much then the pin will come through the other side and
>> you won't be able to snug down the nut.
>> You can easy tap them for angle, but when you seat them without a Pin
>> Press then you must support the crank so you don't pit the races or crack
>> your balls.
>> Usually shop people have a vise that will support the crank when seating
>> the pin.
>> You could improvise, but may need an assistaant to hold frame while you
>> do the seating.
>> Once you are experienced it's easily done holding frame and hammer and
>> drift to do the job.
>> If you don't hammer well, then hold the drift/bar/punch with a pliers so
>> you don't whack your hand.
>> It helps if you don't have the shakes.
>> Just a few hints, been there, done that.
>> Can't believe that a Brit needs cotterpin help!
>> They probably invented them!
>> No wonder you lost the Empire!
>> Ted Ernst
>> Palos Verdes Estates
>> CA USA
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Bob Freitas" <freitas1@pacbell.net>
>> To: "CLASSIC RENDEZVOUS" <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
>> Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 11:36 AM
>> Subject: [CR]RE:Cotters
>>
>>
>>> I believe VAR made a tool which held the cotter and allowed you to
>>> refile the angle.
>>> its been a few years since I have seen one
>>> BOB FREITAS
>>> MILL VALLEY,CA USA