Re: [CR]VAR 371

(Example: Framebuilders:Norman Taylor)

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2007 16:50:39 -0500
To: "robert st.cyr" <rpstcyr@hotmail.com>, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
From: "John Betmanis" <johnb@oxford.net>
Subject: Re: [CR]VAR 371
In-Reply-To: <BAY130-F1024C6139ABD0BBCAA59EA2A70@phx.gbl>


At 01:01 PM 29/01/2007 -0800, robert st.cyr wrote:
>The correct tool for filing a cotter pin for a better fit is the VAR 371
>vise. A handy little tool that makes the job of customizing the shape of the
>pin easy and more profesional. I have two in my shop and use them
>occasionally, but less and less each year. The Park or VAR cotter press are
>both reasonably priced and well worth the investment for pressing and
>removing Cotter pins. I never understood why so many old repair manuals
>suggested the hammer and wood block method as the preffered method over
>buying one of those "expensive" presses.
>I use the press to remove the pin, followed by a drift if the pin is being
>stuborn. I eyeball the cranks by lining them up with seat tube and replace
>the pins with the direction of the pins being asymetrical to each other. I
>use the press to install the pins initially followed by a couple of good
>wacks with a ball peen hammer and a final tightening of the nuts. This
>usually lasts 6 months to a year depending on the size and abusive riding
>habits of the customer.

Here's what the tools look like, including the hammer.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/var/pages/var0012.html

Jerry asked whether the press could also be used for seating the pin. I don't see why not, but a brass, plastic or lead hammer would be quicker easier and quicker.

(I've never used anything but a hammer and block of wood. As for re-using cotter pins, well, I did if they were fairly new, but usually the threaded part bulged and collapsed, even when pounding the nut, so a new pin was required.)

John Betmanis
Woodstock, Ontario
Canada