Re: [CR]Wheel Ball bearings for 1971 Raleigh Supercourse

(Example: Framebuilders:Bernard Carré)

In-Reply-To: <47b23c0b0702081517m6defb5cfy31d8588b2b9617e4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <47b23c0b0702081329gfd0b3eg2929f2f522a2b7c2@mail.gmail.com> <p06240837c1f149c0a9cd@10.0.1.14>
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2007 18:39:34 -0500
To: "philip bailey" <bailey.philip@gmail.com>
From: "Sheldon Brown" <CaptBike@sheldonbrown.com>
Subject: Re: [CR]Wheel Ball bearings for 1971 Raleigh Supercourse
cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org

At 6:17 PM -0500 2/8/07, philip bailey wrote:
>Sheldon,
>
>Wow, Fantastic. I checked on your site earlier, but I got lost.
>Everything I ever wanted to know about balls.
>
>Now that's settled, what about the other two edges?
>
>1. If the wheel spins freely, are the cones and hub surfaces likely
>all right unless gouging is noted in surfaces?
>

Yes.
>Balls, especially if softer, is a no brainer to replace. And
>evidently if people recommend replacing balls every lube change,
>then they must be softer metal than the hub and cone surfaces:
>because I missed anyone suggesting replace cones or hubs every wheel
>lube, so it must be an anomaly or cause for repair from other
>symptoms (?).
> Bearing balls are super hard. I recommend replacing them because they're cheap and easy to replace, unlike cones and cups, and because it's hard to know if you have really got them clean, since you can't know if you've seen every side of every ball.


>2. Is there anyway to help seal bearings when changing, with special
>tape or something? I remember when my LBS converted my BB to
>Ultegra, he said he sealed it so not sure what exactly took place.

Ultegra bbs are sealed at the factory.
>It works great whatever he did though, but that may just be normal
>Ultegra BB product installation.
>
>3. And would it be best just to drop by LBS to get freewheel removed
>since tools for a one time shot seems needless.

If it is really going to be a one-shot, yes. Just bring the wheel to the shop, not the whole bike.

All the best,

Sheldon
>
>
>I appreciate the guidance.
>
>
>Thanks!!!
>Phil Bailey
>Sarasota, FL
>
>
>
>On 2/8/07, Sheldon Brown
><<mailto:CaptBike@sheldonbrown.com>CaptBike@sheldonbrown.com> wrote:
>
>philip bailey wrote:
>>
>>I am going to replace Suntour freewheel with IRD 13-24 5 speed freewheel,
>>and thought this might be good time to replace wheel ball bearings and lube
>>wheels, to propel my big self easier (every little bit helps).
>>
>>
>>1. Is there any reason to do it if the wheels seem to spin fine now,
>>regardless of time or miles since greased?
>
>You can't necessarily tell on the bike. See:
><http://sheldonbrown.com/cones>http://sheldonbrown.com/cones
>
>>
>>2. I don't suppose there is any way to tell ball diameter until you get the
>>wheel axle out?
>
>Front 10 x 3/16" each side.
>
>Rear 9 x 1/4" each side.
>>
>>3. What material would be best for ball bearings, SS 302?
>
>Hardened steel, grade 25.
>
>See: http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/hub-parts.html#bearings
>http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/hub-parts.html#bearings
>
>>4. Just use standard auto 'green' grease?
>
>That's fine.
>
>Sheldon "Green Grease" Brown
>+----------------------------------------+
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> Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
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--
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com
Useful articles about bicycles and cycling
http://sheldonbrown.com