I think you're going to have a hard time tapping threads into a weld too!
David Toppin dave@pelletizer.com http://www.pelletizer.com <see our complete, searchable inventory
The Pelletizer Group, Inc. 4 LaChance Street Gardner, MA 01440-2476
(978) 669-0060 (978) 669-0061 fax
-----Original Message----- From: Bob Freitas [mailto:freitas1@pacbell.net] Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 9:09 PM To: David Toppin Subject: Re: [CR]Re: More about pedal thread repair
I dont think you want to enlarge the hole any more than you have to.Timesert inserts are 1 mm wall thickness and I like them a lot but they do not make any repair kits for Pedal threads.The Eldi repair looks good but I am concerned about how much material has to be removed. I think you could just Tig the threads up and retap but unknown alloy of crankarm makes that dodgy BOB
David Toppin wrote:
> How about sleeving it, and either tig welding or loctiting the sleeve
> in? I think I'd prefer to see a weld. Or maybe a shrink fit would be
> good too
>
>
> David Toppin
> dave@pelletizer.com
> http://www.pelletizer.com <see our complete, searchable inventory
>
> The Pelletizer Group, Inc.
> 4 LaChance Street
> Gardner, MA 01440-2476
>
> (978) 669-0060
> (978) 669-0061 fax
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org
> [mailto:classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org] On Behalf Of Robert
> Freitas
> Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 6:08 PM
> To: oroboyz@aol.com; classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR]Re: More about pedal thread repair
>
>
> That brazing rod is actually Zinc or at least what I sell is.I did
> try to use it on a crankarm but I could not get it to stay in the
> threads.Who knows how it would tap.
> We do have a very sophisticated Alloy rod(its actually an Arc rod)
> that can be used as a brazing rod . It can be used with Mapp gas(not
> propane) but as thick as a crankarm is you could never get enough heat in
it.
> Another way might be Mig or Tig and I will give that a try.
> Once this is all done those Eldi Repairs look better and better.
> BOB FREITAS
> jack of all trades mobile in PETALUMA,CA USA
>
>
> oroboyz@aol.com wrote: << Anyone tried floating more material into
> the hole and just retapping?(Aluminum brazing?) >>
>
> I haven't seen the ads lately but does anyone remeber those low
> temperature aluminum like repair sticks that were on TV and at various
> public expos a few years back? I imagined that that stuff might serve
> this fill-in-and-retap role.
>
> But that stuff looked too good to be true so I always presumed there
> was some not-so-hot aspect that doesn't appear in the persuasive
presentations.
>
> Anyone try that stuff? (I have deja vue and think we may have talked
> about this before...)
>
> OTOH, the Eldi repair process seems to provide a very good permanent
> solution...
>
>
> Dale Brown
> cycles de ORO, Inc.
> 1410 Mill Street
> Greensboro, North Carolina 27408 USA
> 336.274.5959
> http://www.cyclesdeoro.com
> http://www.classicrendezvous.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: freitas1@pacbell.net
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Sent: Mon, 7 May 2007 1:29 AM
> Subject: [CR]re:Pedal Thread repair
>
> Spring type thread repairs (Helicoil, Red dot
> etc) are common and looking at that link are quite inexpensive.
> Problem is the material they are made out of is on the soft side
> and the fastener (or in this case the pedal) pulls directly against
> the thread insert. During the installation you are enlarging the hole
> which in this use weakens the crank arm.
> Is anyone familiar with the Eldi repair ,I like the idea
> of the solid bushing but is the wall thickness more than 1 mm ?
> Advantage a bushing repair has is that your pedal is not pulling
> against the thread and the bushing itself adds strength to the arm.
> Anyone tried floating more material into the hole and
> just retapping?(Aluminum brazing?)
> BOB FREITAS
> MILL VALLEY, CA USA
> disclaimer: I sell Helicoil, Red dot ,Keensert
> and Timesert
>
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