Re: [CR] "Autoshifting" and bb "flats"


Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2007 11:45:35 -0400
From: "Edward Albert" <Edward.H.Albert@hofstra.edu>
To: <oroboyz@aol.com>, <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
Subject: Re: [CR] "Autoshifting" and bb "flats"


Dale, You are certainly right about the axle flats. I remember eventually having to use shims cut out from aluminum coca cola cans that I would balance on opposite sides of the axel with juuuuuuuuussssst a lttle bit overhanging the end so they would stay in place when I mounted the crank -- sometimes I would use a bit of rubber cement to keep them attached long enough to get the cranks on. Those shims were usually enough to tighten down the cranks and still have them clear the BB cup. Couldn't afford a new crankset back then. Edward Albert Chappaqua, NY, USA


>>> <oroboyz@aol.com> 08/05/07 11:19 AM >>>

I think all these subjects have been covered multiple times on this forum, but nonetheless I am feeling chatty and the wisdom (?) of my 35 years in the biz, so I will go at it again.

Auto-shifting (slipping) of Campag DT shifters:

- Often, through the brazing process, brazed on bosses have a bit of brass /silver inside that prevent the attachment/tightening screw from completely tightening. Often you can slightly shorten? that screw and affect more complete control over the tightening , and then avoid slipping ("auto-shifting")

- Internally, some lubrication is a good thing so the components slide against each other, but the later plastic washers especially seem to compress too much, allowing too much slipping & loss of control. We have had success roughing up those washers with a medium file, allowing more control? in adjustment.

Lubricating bottom bracket spindle "flats"

-? I believe that lubricating those flats is a mistake. Reasoning being that the "flats" are actually tapers; each time the cranks are removed and then re-installed, the cranks tend to be drawn up the ramps of those tapers, the softer aluminum alloy of the cranks is then compressed through all that applied force, and the cranks go further inboard each time. Those who ride a lot in all weather (racers of yore), after multiple rebuilds, end up having cranks in danger of touching their bike frame!

- The friction of the unlubricated cranks-on-bb-tapers works great in keeping things properly in place. (Listen and heed Campagnolo's instructions!)

Dale

Dale Brown cycles de ORO, Inc. 1410 Mill Street Greensboro, North Carolina 27408 USA 336.274.5959 http://www.cyclesdeoro.com http://www.classicrendezvous.com

-----Original Message----- From: Donald Gillies <gillies@cs.ubc.ca> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Cc: chuckschmidt@earthlink.net Sent: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 4:39 am Subject: Re: [CR]Autoshifting

Chuck WD-40 ("Water Displacement, 40th try") was invented right here in san diego by a solvent company, who set out to invent a line of "rust prevention solvents and degreasers."

If WD-40 is not a degreaser, then you'd better send a letter to the WD-40 company and let them know it, because they must be mistaken on their website where they describe the invention of their own product:

http://www.wd40.com/AboutUs/our_history.html

They are lucky to have an expert like you to straighten them out in regards to their company history ... :-) :-)

The internals of earlier campagnolo N.R. shifters include a brass domed washer for lubrication. You must not lube either side of this washer, nor lub the wingnut, or it will self-loosen as you shift. You need to remove all grease and lube from these parts, and I recommend a degreaser such as WD-40 to accomplish this task. Ooops, there I go again.

Chuck is right, i believe, that you _can_ lubricate between the lever and the boss, but this is the only place you can lubricate in these shifters, and be careful not get grease anywhere else.

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA