Jerry, Making a new cap is simple, if you have access to a good lathe. In my case I was going from 120mm to 130mm.
Start with a piece of high grade aluminum rod. I was lucky enough to
have a little 11/16" 2024 laying around. Drill a 1/2" hole (with a
nice sharp drill bit so it doesn't get oversized) as deep in one end
as necessary. In the other end drill a 5mm hole for the QR and turn
the OD down to 10mm to fit the
dropout. http://bikesmithdesign.com/
I'd offer to make you one, but my lathe is so crappy the one I made at home had 0.015" of runout. I had to go borrow some lathe time from the guys who make my cotter presses, to make them accurate enough to be useable.
Did you get the stiff bearing problem sorted out? I just sent my hubs to Harlan and he replaced the bearings for a ridiculously low fee.
Tip; The rear axle tube on mine was only 1/2" x 0.035" tubing, centerless ground for an accurate OD. (Aircraft grade 4130 is always a little oversized, won't fit inside the bearings.) After it bent, I made one from 0.049" 4130 tubing. My hubs are older than yours, you might have a heavier axle. Probably not though, Harlan is/was the consummate weight weenie.
At 8/30/2007 07:14 PM -0700, Jerome & Elizabeth Moos wrote:
>Ive had some advice about converting to 126mm and an offer to trade
>for a 126mm, but another problem has arisen. The end cap that
>presses into to non-FW side of the axle is missing. The member who
>sold me the wheels isn't sure it was ever there and the photos look
>like maybe it wasn't there. Anyone know where I might buy an end
>cap, or how to make one? The seller has offered a refund if I want
>to return the wheels, but they really are very nice and clean, so
>I'd like to keep them and sort out the length and the end cap issue.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jerry Moos
> Big Spring, TX
>
>Jerome & Elizabeth Moos <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Sorry, here's the link:
>
>
>http://ebay.com/<blah>
>
> Regards,
>
> Jerry Moos
> Big Spring, TX
>
>
>Jerome & Elizabeth Moos <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> I just received this Hi-E wheelset, outed on the list recently.
> There was some confusion about the rear spacing, but it turns out
> to be 130mm as the revised listing said. I bought this wheelset on
> the blind faith that I could adjust the rear spacing, which may
> have been optimistic. Did Hi-E use threaded end pieces like Phil
> Wool to set the spacing? Will Phil or Mavic or others work? Any
> suggestions about how to convert the rear to 126 or 122? Also, the
> rear bearings seem tight, but I seem to recall some horror stories
> about how difficult it is to change Hi-E bearing. Can someone give
> me some info on replacing, adjusting or lubricating the bearings?
>
>Regards,
>
>Jerry Moos
>
>Big Spring, TX
Mark Stonich;
BikeSmith Design & Fabrication
5349 Elliot Ave S. - Minneapolis. MN 55417
Ph. (612) 824-2372 http://bikesmithdesign.com
http://mnhpva.org