RE: [CR]Wheelbuilding advice needed

(Example: Framebuilders:Jack Taylor)

From: "Tom Harriman" <transition202@hotmail.com>
To: "Dr. Paul Williams" <castell5@sympatico.ca>, Classic Rendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
Subject: RE: [CR]Wheelbuilding advice needed
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 00:08:11 +0000


Hi Paul. Having built and ridden many defferent wheels in my many days, th e spooks that I have had the best luck with are Swiss DT. I'm 195 lbs, bik e commute 9 months of the year, and do centuries and doubles on the weekend s, so I defiantly have miles on my spokes. Anyway DT's, laced 3x, and stra ight gage 14 on the back rear, are the spokes that have given me no trouble , stayed true, and sometimes have outlasted the hubs and rims. If you want built it, and forget about it wheels, use the DT's. Safe Cycling.

Tom Harriman. San francisco, Ca> From: castell5@sympatico.ca> To: classicrendezvous@bikel ist.org> Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 11:02:53 -0500> Subject: [CR]Wheelbuilding advice needed> > Morning everyone from a winter wonderland (buried deep in snow),> > I am preparing to build one wheelset for my latest project. Thank s to > listmember, Krister Katsogiannos, I now have a set of NOS Fiamme Yel low > Label clincher rims - 26 X 1-1/4" 36H (no eyelets) - and from Pete Pa ine > a NOS pair of 36H Bayliss and Wiley small-flange hubs - solid turned
> chrome (lovely, virtually mint condition with flip-top oilers) - rear > d ouble-fixed. I do not really have the expertise or the equipment to > build
   this wheelset, but another listmember, Rodd Heino, has kindly set > me up with someone who will build the set for me.> > I must now find suitable spo kes, however. I have run the measurements > through a couple of different s poke calculators - including Damon > Rinard's spreadsheet on Sheldon's site . By the looks of it I will need > 287mm or 294mm for the front (3X or 4X) and 285mm or 293mm rear (3X or > 4X). > > Now come some decisions: do I go with straight gauge or double-butted > spokes? what gauge? how many crosses ? brass or alloy nipples? do I have > to get two different lengths for fron t and back - given that the > measurements are with a mm or two?> > I haven 't had to think about this before as I have always bought > ready-builts. O n the ClassicLightweights website Alexander von Tutschek > suggests:> > "NO TE, classic wheels look good with 15/17 gauge spokes. If you want > your cl assic lightweight to look as if it has moped wheels in it use > common 14/1 6 spokes. This is the most common error in today's restored > machines. (I do know that thicker spokes were used in heavy touring > machines and tande ms and by those with a fuller figure etc)"> > I am looking to this esteemed
   list for advice on what will give the best > results (for a late-40s early -50s frameset). Also please advise on > availability of suitable spokes. Th ese won't be the lightest weight > wheels so I would prefer to save some we ight on the spokes if possible.> > Any help would be greatfully received,>
> Paul Williams,> Ottawa, ON, Canada> > --- StripMime Report -- processed M IME parts ---> multipart/alternative> text/plain (text body -- kept)> text/ html> ---> _______________________________________________> Classicrendezvo us mailing list> Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> http://www.bikelist.org/ma ilman/listinfo/classicrendezvous