I 'd like to add a few lines in response to some of answeres to my
respective posts.
If you look at your QR ends, you will note that they are somewhat cupped or
relieved at each dome where they compress against the frame.
If your spindle only comes through a whisker and the domes don't bottom
against the axle and the pressure is on the dropout holding your wheel in
place, you are just fine.
If only a mm or so is in the dropout then the support may be compromised.
That's why Campagnolo was in the drivers seat so long. They were the only
ones that had a complete gruppo and because their quality control was so
good, everything was interchangeable and all the spare parts were made and
stocked.
Almost all the teams used Campy and because the dropouts were consistently
thick, any team could help each other out on breakaways and usually the QR
adjustment wouldn't even have to be adjusted. It was slap the wheel in,
tighten up the QR, and away the rider went.
How many times have we seen recently where the "mechanic" was playing around
trying to get the wheel in properly while the rider was frustrated while
losing time as he watched the "mechanics" antics.
That's where cluster spacing, chainlines, etc. when standardised made the
race look molto profesionale.
On the rim Q, bear in mind that my comments are general regarding the
weights.
Some people walk hard, wearing their shoes out
Some big guys are so light on their feet that one doesn't hear them, ie.
dancing.
Some small light guys sound like they're clogging while waltzing.
Some people ride the clutch when driving.
It's the same on a bike.
Everyone rides differently. Some big bruisers ride lightly on the bike, some
small guys clunk around and drive every bump into the wheels and frame.
So, depending where you fall in that spectrum, you can ride lighter or
heavier rims with the same success.
Choose what works for you, it may take a few rides to dial it in once you
become aware, tune in, and listen to your bodies and riding styles.
That's another reason to have a good position on your bike.
Remember, you are not ON your bike, you are supposed to be IN your bike and
flow with with it.
Ted Ernst
Palos Verdes Estates
CA USA
> And if it's a mm too long it still won't bottom out.
> If you don't like it grind or file the SOB off and get on with it.
> What in hell do you think the master team mechanics would do at a race at
> 2:00 AM getting the bikes ready for the next stage?
> They'd take a GD meat cleaver to it if they had to.
> Ted Ernst
> Palos Verdes Estates
> CA 90274
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ternst" <ternst1@cox.net>
> To: "ternst" <ternst1@cox.net>; <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 9:30 PM
> Subject: Re: [CR]128 OLN on 140 length axle ?
>
>
>> Sorry, no sign off
>> Ted Ernst
>> Palos Verdes Estates
>> CA 90274
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "ternst" <ternst1@cox.net>
>> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
>> Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 9:27 PM
>> Subject: Re: [CR]128 OLN on 140 length axle ?
>>
>>
>>> It's only too long if the QR bottoms out on axle when you tighten it so
>>> the tension is compromised.
>>> Best is when axle is within 1mm or flush with dropout on outside.
>>> Got It? Good! The rest is, well, fill in your own blanks.
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "r cielec" <teaat4p@yahoo.com>
>>> To: "Classic Rendezvous" <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
>>> Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 8:33 PM
>>> Subject: [CR]128 OLN on 140 length axle ?
>>>
>>>
>>>> Ahoy !
>>>>
>>>> Subject line about says it.
>>>> Can 128OLN be built on an axle 140 long? Campag drop-outs.
>>>> Conventional wisdom says OLN + 11 = recommended axle lenght - 139.
>>>> Is 140 too long ?
>>>> Thank you.
>>>> Richard Cielec
>>>> Chicago, Illinois
>>>>
>>>>
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