Re: [CR]re: why no dynohubs? II


Example: Framebuilders:Masi

Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 23:44:06 -0600
From: "Mitch Harris" <mitch.harris@gmail.com>
To: "Gilbert Anderson" <cyclestore@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [CR]re: why no dynohubs? II
In-Reply-To: <8801bb250706262243q50e6f0f9wf5870305c0c6b192@mail.gmail.com>
References: <MONKEYFOODLiymm5fZ200003aa7@monkeyfood.nt.phred.org> <b80c3b48243b889188b50e036c87765b@aol.com> <E1I3OJJ-0000yT-00@pop-sarus.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <bea804b9846db49488a129050f361c0c@aol.com>
cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org

Doh. Mitch Harris Little Rock Canyon, Utah

On 6/26/07, Mitch Harris <mitch.harris@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Wish I had the reference but I remember an article in the CTC magazine
> about drum brake design that showed that the way the pads are oriented
> inside the drum has everything to do with how powerful drum brakes are, and
> how soon they fade.
>
> --Mitch
>
>
> On 6/26/07, Gilbert Anderson <cyclestore@aol.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hello Mark and all,
> >
> > While it worked I found the Aria Drum brake lost it's effectiveness
> > quickly with use for me. I preferred the canti's with good pads on
> > mine. While not designed for a tandem I have never had any problem with
> > the newer (last 7-8 years) Sturmey Archer drum brakes. They have
> > primarily had alloy 90 mm hub shells but as I recall the steel ones
> > worked fine.
> >
> > Set up is a non issue really but brake levers supplied were and are now
> > junk.
> >
> > Adjust the bearing, clamp the brake reaction arm down, use a decent
> > brake lever and cable, take slack out of cable. apply pressure to
> > handle, stop. I feel like they are as simple as you can get.
> >
> > Good, well placed cable stops help any brake. Santana Tandems going
> > back over 25 years have some of the best and had big cables in the old
> > days.
> >
> > Yours in Cycling,
> >
> > Gilbert Anderson
> >
> > North Road Bicycle Company
> > PO Box 840
> > 166 Court Square
> > Yanceyville, NC 27379
> > USA
> >
> > Our newest direct local Yanceyville Area phone is 336-421-4054
> > Toll Free Research Triangle Area, NC area 919-828-8999
> > Toll free Nationwide 800-321-5511
> >
> > email: cyclestore@aol.com
> >
> > http://www.northroadbicycle.com ----> New Website Improved Daily
> >
> >
> > <<On Jun 26, 2007, at 11:37 PM, Mark Stonich wrote:
> >
> > I have no trouble believing that you found yours to be effective. The
> > effectiveness of a drum brake has a lot to do with setting them up
> > correctly. Most people don't mess with them so I assume that
> > variations of fit and assembly can make the difference between a good
> > and bad one. The best and worst drum brakes I ever used were the Arai
> > tandem drum. One provided almost imperceptible retardation. Another,
> > on Bill McReady's original Santana triple prototype, hauled 500+ pounds
> > to a stop quite nicely. Bill claimed he rarely used the front brake.
> >
> > I assumed Pete Eagan of VeloVision knows how to optimize them, but
> > maybe not. I'll send him instructions. Back when I was riding
> > motorcycle Observed Trials in the '70s, brakes were snuff tin sized
> > drums and were often submerged in one section and then sorely tested on
> > a tricky downhill in the next. Those of us who knew how to get the
> > most out of them got a lot fewer bruises.
> >
> > Are/Were your drums 90 or 70mm? Steel shell/drum or alloy shell
> > w/cast iron drum? Old or modern?
> >
> > At 6/26/2007 05:59 PM -0400, Gilbert Anderson wrote:
> > > Hello folks,
> > >
> > > On Sturmey drum brakes; I I have little personal experience with the
> > > Dynohub version but the standard Drum Brake will toss you over the
> > > bars easily. I was so impressed I bought a pair (drum brake hubs)
> > > front and rear for an old Raleigh Gran Sport. No maintenance, clean
> > > rims, weather proof., strong large flanges, cool.
> > >
> > > The standard supplied brake levers for the hubs suck however, they are
> > > nylon, are flexible and have limited travel and as far as I'm
> > > concerned, unsafe and non functional. We have sold hundred of the old
> >
> > > Pashley Roadsters with these brakes front and rear coupled with
> > > Mountain Bike levers with zero complaints. My personal bike had
> > > Campagnolo record road levers and again you can easily lock up both
> > > wheels but they have better modularity than linear pull brakes.
> > > Linear pull a and disk brakes take less hand pressure to lock up the
> > > wheel than an SA drum brake but you have to wonder if being able to
> > > easily lock up a wheel is a good thing.
> > >
> > > I would be surprised if the Dynohub brake performs any different from
> > > the non Dynohub version.
> >
> > Shouldn't, assuming same shoe size and leverage. I'd love to have the
> > generator drum in the front and the XRD5
> > http://www.sturmey-archer.com/hubs_5spd_AB5.php 5 speed drum in the
> > rear.>>