Dear Fellow List member. Hi, we do allot of this kind of ridding here in Ca, and fortunately this is an easy question. What you need is classic set of Road wheels. I've had great luck with modern Shimano hubs, either 105 or ultergra, 32 DT spokes l aced 3x, and a good mavic rims. Once these are ready, a set of 700 x 28 to uring tires, and your ready to ride long miles. You may want to try your l ocal craigslist, as I sometimes see good deals there. I now all the old C ampy guys are going to weigh in for Campy hubs, but remember this set of wh eels is for a bike that's going to be going many miles, and not in a collec tors house. Here's wishing you many miles of happy cycling in the new year . Tom Harriman. San Francisco,CA
From: teaat4p@yahoo.com
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR]On Topic Wheel Build for Mountain Road Riding ?
>
> Ahoy er, Howdy !
>
> Any suggestions and recommedations for building an On Topic wheel set
> that will be used primarily along twisty, paved, mountain roads ? Day
> trip-enjoy the day type of use where the "load" won't be more than tyre
> repair, rain coat and lunch or maybe a sack o' groceries. Won't be
> racing; won't be camping; won't be going off-road or, trying not to go
> off-road. Very likely 122 - 126OLN; unless there is sensible
> off-set/build reason offered to use otherwise.
>
> I - flat-lander from the "Wild Onion" - honestly don't know what if any
> special considerations should be made when building a wheel set for
> this use and I have merely several hours actual saddle time rolling
> down and grunting up mountain roads. (Great fun, both directions).
>
> All the usual aspects -
> (Especially welcome are cautionary tips a la: "Definitely do NOT use
> xxx".)
> High flange, low flange ?
> Spoke count and cross ?
> Anodized vs. non-anodized rim?
> Rim weight and what would be lowest limit ? (Any rim weight, model that
> definitely should not be used?)
> Clincher vs. tubulare (Note: I am 99.9999% certain of using clincher
> unless there is overwhelming opinion not to. My reasoning: clincher
> should be easier to replace if needed. Really don't know of the safety
> aspect re: blow-out remaining on rim - maybe such low risk that this
> isnt an issue.)
> Tyres (tread pattern, wire-on, foldable, tubulare, rubber
> composition..... Yes, tyres will be contemporary, brand-spanking new.
> No, I won't be using vintage tyres.)
>
> Thank you.
>
> Richard Cielec
> Chicago, Illinois; U.S.A.
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________________