Howdy folks,
Out of lurk mode for a request.
Long shot here, but I would like to buy a chrome Olmo fork, such as came stock on the Competition circa 1979, 80, 81, with the FLAT Olmo engraved crown. Steerer length 170 to 180 mm. Prefer excellent condition, no pitted or peeling chrome. Anybody got an extra?
Thanks.
Speaking of lurk mode, whatever happened to Chuck Schmidt?
Jay Sexton Sebastopol, CA
classicrendezvous-request@bikelist.org wrote:
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> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
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>
>
> CR
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. WTB: fork crown (EPL)
> 2. History of American Cycling in SunPower press release
> (Ken Wehrenberg)
> 3. Re: Homemade tools in your toolbox (Pete Geurds)
> 4. Stucchi 1940-50 ??? - request for help (Riky Brondi)
> 5. Re: Homemade tools in your toolbox (Daniel Artley)
> 6. Small parts wanted for AX brake caliper (Peter Naiman)
> 7. WTB: fork crown (K.R. Bennett)
> 8. Stucchi 1940-50 ??? - request for help (The Maasland Family)
> 9. Roll over, Jack (David Bean)
> 10.
> For Sale : 27" Mavic MA2 / Campy Record rear wheel and Mod. 58 630
> rims
> 11. Frame Rust Removal (Ty)
> 12. Problem with RIGI... (Norris Lockley)
> 13. CARRE and Daniel SALMON.. (Norris Lockley)
> 14. home-made tools. (Harvey Sachs)
> 15. Re: Roll over, Jack (David G. White)
> 16. Re: Frame Rust Removal (John Betmanis)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 15:19:19 -0500 (EST)
> From: EPL <lowiemanuel@yahoo.ca>
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR]WTB: fork crown
> Message-ID: <958891.82219.qm@web50506.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
> In-Reply-To: <MONKEYFOODrJ8eBt2jB00001f43@monkeyfood.nt.phred.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 1
>
> For a KOF project, seeking to buy a classically
> proportioned flat-top fork crown, either a Georg Fischer or
> its Hitachi clone or what have you...
>
> Emanuel Lowi
> Montreal, Quebec
>
>
> Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
>
> http://www.flickr.com/
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 14:27:25 -0600
> From: Ken Wehrenberg <wnwires@htc.net>
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR] History of American Cycling in SunPower press release
> Message-ID: <03CE053B-C338-4999-A540-E3311F2771FC@htc.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=US-ASCII;delsp=yes;format=flowed
> MIME-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v730)
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 2
>
> The King of the Mountain ride held in conjunction with next month's
> Amgen Tour:
>
> "For more than a Century, San Jose has been a key center for cycling
> sport. We are proud to carry on this legacy with the Webcor King-of-
> the-Mountain and Amgen Tour of California events," said San Jose's
> Chief Development Officer whose City recently adopted the San Jose
> Green Vision -- an aggressive 15-year plan addressing clean
> technologies, environmental sustainability and green mobility. "We
> hope residents throughout San Jose and Silicon Valley are inspired by
> these events and consider cycling as a viable mode of
> transportation," said Krutko.
>
> San Jose's long history of cycling includes the production of the
> first mechanically pedaled bicycle in North America -- created in the
> 1800s. Additionally, San Jose's first bicycling club, the Garden City
> Wheelmen, was formed in 1884. The City has also been home to six
> velodromes with the first dating back to 1892. The Hellyer Park
> Velodrome is currently the only velodrome in Northern California, and
> is one of 19 still in existence in the United States.
>
> For more information about the Webcor King-of-the-Mountain Ride and
> its Mattson CEO Challenge and SunPower PedalOn Awards, please contact
> Tricia Kerkhof, tricia.kerkhof@sanjoseca.gov, (408) 277-5144, ext. 33.
>
>
>
> Good opportunity for those of you nearby to put on that Eroica-look
> garb.
>
>
>
> Ken Wehrenberg, Hermann, MO
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 15:38:31 -0500
> From: Pete Geurds <raleighpro@dejazzd.com>
> To: Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Re: [CR]Homemade tools in your toolbox
> Message-ID: <121d01c85a12$173fd6b0$6401a8c0@peter5x12klm15>
> References: <478FF006.8030804@xtra.co.nz>
> <01bc01c85a05$c51d57b0$2c01a8c0@bike1>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
> reply-type=response
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT
> Precedence: list
> Message: 3
>
> Hi,
> 1) I bought one chain whip, made a duplicate from scrap metal and chain.
> 2) Old pair of BB cups with slits cut across threads to use as a thread
> chaser. (Use very thin cutting wheel, be sure to remove burrs)
> 3) Old steel 3 piece hub, remove non-drive flange. Use to hold freewheels in
> vise.
> 4) I use plastic body putty spreaders cut to size for spreading stems and
> seattubes. No marks, no poking ones self with screwdriver, ouch.....
>
>
> Pete Geurds
> Douglassville, Pa. USA
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 21:46:22 +0100
> From: "Riky Brondi" <riky.brondi@e-rta.it>
> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]Stucchi 1940-50 ??? - request for help
> Message-ID: <006c01c85a13$3000dae0$900290a0$@brondi@e-rta.it>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="US-ASCII"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 4
>
> Hi,
>
>
>
> I am new and I'm sorry in case I have posted twice, I am looking for a
> confirmation and more info about this bicycle which looks to be a Stucchi
> Prinetti 1940-50.
>
>
>
> http://www.flickr.com/
>
>
>
> Many thanks to you for the help.
>
>
>
> Regards
>
> Riky Brondy - Falcade - Italy
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 15:47:04 -0500
> From: "Daniel Artley" <dartley@baltimorecountymd.gov>
> To: "Classic Rendezvous" <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: Re: [CR]Homemade tools in your toolbox
> Message-ID: <4790C9F6.CB1D.00FE.0@baltimorecountymd.gov>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Precedence: list
> Message: 5
>
> Before I owned a shop wheel jig, I built and true'd wheels right on the
> bike with one of the cheapest of all tools, a rubber band! I'd tilt the
> brake blocks so one end sticks up above the rim, and stretched the rubber
> band around the caliper and over the high end of both blocks. The rubber
> band acts like a feeler gauge allowing micro adjusting for round with the
> band twisting slightly as it touches the rim. The brake blocks may be
> pushed close to the rim for the high spots for true, and flipping the
> wheel in the dropouts sets the dish. Piece of cake! A bunch of wheels
> got built that way. Just takes a bit more patience than a wheel jig.
>
> My other main shop tool is my 2' long Craftsman flat head screwdriver.
> The perfect lever, and great for spreading stem clamps to slide the bar in
> just so with no scratches.
>
> Dan Artley in Parkton, MD
>
> Archive-URL: http://search.bikelist.org/
> vous.10801.0628.eml
> Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 13:17:10 +1300
> From: Wayne Davidson <wayne.collect(AT)xtra.co.nz>
> Subject: [CR]Homemade tools in your toolbox ( http://search.bikelist.org/
> ery.asp?SearchString=%22Homemade+tools+in+your+toolbox%22&SearchPrefi
> x=%40msgsubject&SortBy=MsgDate%5Ba%5D )
>
> Hi all, while I was having a tidy up in my toolboxes, the thought came
> across me, "how many others out there have special homemade tools that
> could be used by others", send a list to the list if you are prepared
> to
> supply details that could enable someone to duplicate. I'll make mine
> up
> later & send......regards wayne davidson Invers NZ
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 13:00:44 -0800 (PST)
> From: Peter Naiman <hetchinspete1@yahoo.com>
> To: classicrendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]Small parts wanted for AX brake caliper
> Message-ID: <913785.2673.qm@web38109.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 6
>
> I purchased a full AX group last year, but only one problem. One of the brake calipers has the wrong brake adjuster. Just wondering if a list member has an extra or one from a group that was split off as spare parts.
>
> Thank you,
> Peter Naiman
> Glendale, WI
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 21:19:08 +0000
> From: kerriganbennett@comcast.net (K.R. Bennett)
> To: Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR]WTB: fork crown
> Message-ID: <011820082119.26293.479117CC0001F987000066B522135753339B9B0A02020A0D020E09079D9D0A05@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 7
>
> Emanuel,
>
> Richard Sachs has his own contemporary version of this crown with slightly wider spacing, slightly deeper sockets, and a few other improvements over the hitachi crown. I think it's even available in stainless. He also may have the original hitachi crowns.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Kerrigan Bennett
> Pleasant Hill, CA USA
>
> Archive-URL: http://search.bikelist.org/
> Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 15:19:19 -0500 (EST)
> From: EPL <lowiemanuel(AT)yahoo.ca>
> Subject: [CR]WTB: fork crown
>
> For a KOF project, seeking to buy a classically
> proportioned flat-top fork crown, either a Georg Fischer or
> its Hitachi clone or what have you...
>
> Emanuel Lowi
> Montreal, Quebec
>
>
> Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
>
> http://www.flickr.com/
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 21:49:57 +0000
> From: themaaslands@comcast.net (The Maasland Family)
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org (Classic Rendezvous)
> Subject: [CR]Stucchi 1940-50 ??? - request for help
> Message-ID: <011820082149.22083.47911F05000A9CE80000564322155538949C0B020E049C0E0E030A089B@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 8
>
> Riky asked about the bike that he posted two photos of here:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/
>
> This bike could indeed be a Stucchi & Prinetti, just as it could also be the product of any number of other manufacturers, or for that matter a small local builder. All of the lugs and the fork crown appear to me to be bog standard versions that any builder could readily purchase from one of the large wholesalers. In fact, if you look in an early 50's Bozzi catalogue, you can find quite similar headlugs listed as Serie congiunzione tipo Brianza. The same goes for the seatlug and fork crown.
>
> Because of your location in the province of Belluno, if the bike was from a larger builder, I would expect that the bike is more likely to be one of the brands more readily found in your area. Especially given the vintage, it would have been rather unusual to find a Stucchi in the Dolomites. A more likely possibility would be an Atala. Check out the lugs on this one:
>
> http://www.wooljersey.com/
>
> or perhaps a Bottecchia or a Taurea, all of which were much more 'local' to where you are. Generally speaking, all of the major builders fitted 'branded' components on their bikes, so I would check to see if any of the components are branded. If not, I would tend to think that the bike is more likely to be from a small local framebuilder. Please do however be aware of the fact that the stem does not appear to be original to your bike, which could mean that the bike was modified from racing bike to city bike and now back to racing set-up (a quite common occurence on cambio corsa bikes in Italy).
>
>
>
> --
> Steven Maasland
> Moorestown, NJ, USA
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 12:32:01 -0500
> From: "David Bean" <beandk@rcn.com>
> To: "CR List (E-mail)" <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]Roll over, Jack
> Message-ID: <000101c859f8$09d8e530$6d7ba8c0@dkbwin2k>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Reply-To: beandk@rcn.com
> Message: 9
>
> I was wondering what might be on offer on ebay for even more than the $3500
> Pog. How 'bout this Jack Taylor? Gotta dig thos tyres! I wonder what the
> Taylors would have thought? Item # 280192970629
>
> David Bean
> Arlington, MA
> beandk at are-see-enn dot com
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 14:59:03 -0800
> From: <emeneff@earthlink.net>
> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]
> For Sale : 27" Mavic MA2 / Campy Record rear wheel and Mod. 58 630 rims
> Message-ID: <000501c85a25$b8ec68d0$0c0110ac@D7FBDM41>
> Content-Type: text/plain;format=flowed;charset="Windows-1252";
> reply-type=original
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 10
>
> With all the recent list buzz about 27" tires and whatnot, I thought I would
> offer up this tasty morsel of a rear wheel :
>
> MA2 rim polished silver, newish green /yellow decal
>
> Campy Record 36 hole small flange hub - 121.5 spacing for a 5 or Ultra 6
> freewheel
>
> DT 14 - 15 stainless butted spokes, brass nipples
>
> Continental Gatorskin 1 &1/4" tire
>
> Wheel and tire are in very good condition. Bearings smooth. Threads Perfect.
> No dents or Flat-Spots on the rim. Good spoke tension and true to within
> .5mm
>
> I'm asking $100 plus $12 shipping.
>
>
> PS - I also still have the two 27 x 1&1/4" model 58 style rims by Wolber and
> Rigida. 36 hole. Nice.
> I'm dropping the price to $45 / pr plus $10 shipping.
>
>
> Thanks !
> Mike Fabian
> headcold and cleaning house on a sunny day. UGH !
> San Francisco, CA
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 15:21:25 -0800 (PST)
> From: Ty <kayakboy32@yahoo.com>
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR]Frame Rust Removal
> Message-ID: <253536.6189.qm@web56515.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 11
>
> Hi All, I have been a long time lurker, Mainly when
> I have gotten a new bicycle. Well, I just got a 531
> tubed Major Nichols touring frame that has been
> neglected. It has prevalent rust. I want to do what
> ever is going to be best for the frame. I am willing
> to scrape off the paint and sand with some kind of
> wheel. I had considered reverse hydrolysis, but fear
> for the brazing in the lugs. I have also heard that
> molasses was an effective rust remover. My primary
> concern is with the brazing. Any input is greatly
> appreciated. Thank you, Ty
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 15:54:38 -0800 (PST)
> From: Norris Lockley <norris.lockley@yahoo.com>
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR]Problem with RIGI...
> Message-ID: <455207.33184.qm@web44904.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 12
>
> I suppose that having spent much of my time in the 70s and 80s building large numbers of time trial bikes with ridiculously short rear triangles, including quite a few with double seat tubes like the RIGI, I can claim to have some experience of the sort of problem that Wayne is experiencing with the chain line on the small ring and the little sprocket.
> Fortunately the majority of the purist time-trialists eschewed the double chainwheel, so the problem of chain line as Wayne is finding it, was not all that common.There was quite a fashion for pushing high gears on the long straight-out-and-back drag strips, and often riders would fit a 58 or 59 single ring...the largest that I ever fitted being a 66T TA. Such large rings coupled with a very short back-end did give rise to possibilities of the ring rubbing on the chainstay if that hadn't been carefully indented.
> The other solution that I used more often tan not was to use either a MAVIC or Stronglight sleeve bracket unit - one of those that doesn't use the bracket threads but locks with a couple of external locking rings that bear against the bracket shell. On occasion it was necessary to dismantle these to reverse the axle...but generally the use of such a unit would overcome all set up problems.
>
> The other vary obvious solution is not to use the chain on the combination of inner ring and smallest sprocket...or the reverse! The Mercier company used to publish on the back page of their catalogues, illustrations of goood and recommended gear usage and the opposite..and the two uses of the extremes were always crossed out with large XXXs to dissuade the user from selecting combinations that were known both not to work very well but to also cause problems and lead to faster wear and tear.
>
> Norris Lockley...Settle Uk
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 16:03:50 -0800 (PST)
> From: Norris Lockley <norris.lockley@yahoo.com>
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR]CARRE and Daniel SALMON..
> Message-ID: <36041.70020.qm@web44916.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 13
>
> I have recently posted some photos and some text about Carre, Salmon and Alcyon on my Flickr photo pages that might prove to be of interest.
> This is just a start and I am attempting to ake better qaulity photos of some of the machines in my collection..so watch this space.
>
> The CARRE road bike is interesting as it was a custom-build for a well-known French amateur rider and officer of the French Federation. Although the photos are not superb..due probably to the fact that the sun has not shone in Settle for at least seven weeks..and I still haven't got the hang of taking pictures indoors.
> I hope to post photos soon of one of CARRE's own frames that I was l lucky to find in Paris..and all chrome job..but am just awaiting a break in the constant downpour outside.
>
> In this context I remember that a CR LIst member who produces spectacular photos.posted some instructionson the List about how he set up his shots. I did download the info..but it got lost in one of the several computer crashes that I have suffered recently. Can anyone point me to it please?
>
> The photos are on http://www.flickr.com/
>
> Norris Lockley..Settle UK
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 19:06:10 -0500
> From: Harvey Sachs <hmsachs@verizon.net>
> To: kerriganbennett@comcast.net,
> Classic Rendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]home-made tools.
> Message-ID: <47913EF2.3080806@verizon.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Reply-To: hsachs@alumni.rice.edu
> Message: 14
>
> My headset remover is made from a Genuine purple Columbia bicycle tube,
> slotted Kerrigan's (below). It was hard to cut the end I didn't slot,
> because Columbia used its own "double-butting:" an internal sleeve of
> the same crappy material. Good base for the hammer to hit.
>
> harvey sachs
> mcLean va.
>
> Great topic!
>
> I have a set of cheap channel locks the jaws of which have been filed for
> use as a lockring wrench for bottom brackets or track hubs. I always wanted
> the VAR, or at least Hozan, pliers, but this set probably works better.
>
> Also, a headset remover made from a 7/8 inch steel tube length with a couple
> hack saw cuts. It's not pretty, but it seems to work quite well and it's a
> lot cheaper than the Campy alternative (which we used to call the "home
> wrecker" in my shop days).
>
> Kerrigan Bennett
> Pleasant Hill, CA, USA, where we've found that tool-money saved is
> beer-money earned.
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 19:08:26 -0500
> From: "David G. White" <whiteknight@burlingtontelecom.net>
> To: beandk@rcn.com
> Cc: "CR List \(E-mail\)" <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: Re: [CR]Roll over, Jack
> Message-ID: <47913F7A.2000702@burlingtontelecom.net>
> In-Reply-To: <000101c859f8$09d8e530$6d7ba8c0@dkbwin2k>
> References: <000101c859f8$09d8e530$6d7ba8c0@dkbwin2k>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 15
>
> First time I've ever seen such a garish Jack Taylor! Ouch!
>
> David -- JT Fan -- White
> Burlington, VT
>
>
>
>
>
> David Bean wrote:
>
>> I was wondering what might be on offer on ebay for even more than the $3500
>> Pog. How 'bout this Jack Taylor? Gotta dig thos tyres! I wonder what the
>> Taylors would have thought? Item # 280192970629
>>
>> David Bean
>> Arlington, MA
>> beandk at are-see-enn dot com
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 19:12:32 -0500
> From: John Betmanis <johnb@oxford.net>
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Re: [CR]Frame Rust Removal
> Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20080118191232.0154bba8@mailhost.oxford.net>
> In-Reply-To: <253536.6189.qm@web56515.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Precedence: list
> Message: 16
>
> At 03:21 PM 18/01/2008 -0800, Ty wrote:
>
>> Hi All, I have been a long time lurker, Mainly when
>> I have gotten a new bicycle. Well, I just got a 531
>> tubed Major Nichols touring frame that has been
>> neglected. It has prevalent rust. I want to do what
>> ever is going to be best for the frame. I am willing
>> to scrape off the paint and sand with some kind of
>> wheel. I had considered reverse hydrolysis, but fear
>> for the brazing in the lugs. I have also heard that
>> molasses was an effective rust remover. My primary
>> concern is with the brazing. Any input is greatly
>> appreciated. Thank you, Ty
>>
>
> With a really old, rusty frame, I would be leery of any agressive
> mechanical means to strip the paint. The pros like to use media blasting to
> remove both paint and rust, but I'd be afraid of perforating badly rust
> pitted areas. I have a similar project awaiting and plan to use a heavy
> duty paint and varnish remover, with the help of a small stainless steel or
> brass brush. When the paint is all gone, I have 2 options; oxalic acid or
> phosphoric acid to remove the rust. I think phosphoric is more aggressive,
> but I don't yet know what it would do to chrome dropouts, so I'll have to
> experiment. Yes, I too read about the molasses project on Bike Forums, but
> I've heard a lot more about oxalic acid doing a good job and have used it
> on a chrome chainset and headset parts. Oxalic is good with chromed parts
> because it does not leave a black coating like phosphoric. However,
> phosphoric leaves a good base for painting.
>
> Apparently oxalic acid crystals are sold as wood bleach by hardware stores
> and building supplies, but no place I tried in my area had heard of it. I
> ended up getting the stuff from a mail order taxidermy supply house. I
> don't know where you're located because you didn't sign off as per CR list
> rules, so I can't suggest where to try.
>
> John Betmanis
> Woodstock, Ontario
> Canada
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
> End of Classicrendezvous Digest, Vol 61, Issue 57
> *************************************************