Adjustable reamers come in different flavors. The one I specified from McMaster is a *angle-blade* adjustable reamer, particularly for instances where there's a slot like a keyway to deal with. Works, essentially, like a full-on spiral one.
I agree that, if the slot were the full length of the blades, a straight-blade reamer would be very hard to deal with, but with a partial-length slot like a seat tube, there's much less of an issue (in my limited (and unhurried) experience).
I applaud builders who do this at the right moment in the production process...the issue at hand is dealing with frames where the builder or manufacturer hasn't taken the care to make sure the seatpost inserts properly.
Scott Minneman San Francisco, CA USA
-----Original Message----- From: James Valiensi [mailto:email@example.com] Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2008 7:45 PM To: Scott L. Minneman Cc: firstname.lastname@example.org Subject: Re: [CR] Seat tube reamer
The adjustable reamers are a real pain to use in a seat tube that the slot
has been cut. This is because the cutter blades are parallel to the slot and
they have a tendency to bind up. The reamers from Joe Bringheli and Ceeway
are the spiral type and do not have this problem.
I think the reaming process should be done at the frame building phase. I
use an adjustable reamer, but I'll ream the seat tube before I machine the
Northridge, CA USA
On Apr 27, 2008, at 5:38 PM, Scott L. Minneman wrote:
> Or get the one with the right adjustable range from McMaster
> (www.mcmaster.com, part number 2987A37, 1" - 1.125"), which is just
> Another possibility, if you want to have more flexibility in messing
> up all sorts of parts, is to buy a whole set from Harbor Freight, for
> the same money (probably not as good, in the grand scheme, but
> adequate for many occasional purposes).
> One nice thing about their size ranges is that the 27.2 one is just
> barely into its own reamer, so that one tool can be a "set it and
> forget it" 27.2 one (unless, dog forbid, you occasionally work on
> off-topic bikes (or something odd that has a 27.4 post)).
> Scott Minneman
> San Francisco, CA USA
> -----Original Message-----
> From: email@example.com [mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org]
> Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2008 2:30 PM
> To: email@example.com
> Subject: Re: [CR] Seat tube reamer
> I would recommend you get the appropriately-sized adjustable one from
> Bike Tools Etc.
> Their basic one for the typical range of vintage bikes' posts is $78.
> They have an HSS version for about $200, but I doubt you will need
> Once you get it set to where you want it (27.2 in this case) then just
> leave set to that diameter.
> I have one, and have used it literally hundreds of times. I just
> recently bought a smaller-diameter one so I can set that one at 22.2
> mm for steerer tubes.
> And yes, do the reaming with the frame's BB shell higher than the seat
> lug, so the small particles (that don't stick to the reamer, use lots
> of cutting
> oil!) can fall out into a waste receptacle of your choice....
> Greg Parker
> Ann Arbor, Michigan
> Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 12:21:05 -0500
> From: John Thompson <firstname.lastname@example.org>
> To: email@example.com
> Subject: [CR] Seat tube reamer
> Johnsons wrote:
>> Purpose made seat tube reamers can be difficult to find in the
>> required sizes and if you find one they can have disastrous results
>> if not used very carefully indeed.
> An adjustable reamer (size "I" IIRC; I'm not near my shop at the
> works well for reaming on-topic frames.
>> I always push some cloth way down the seat tube first to stop metal
>> particles dropping down into the bottom bracket area. When finished I
>> turn the frame upside down to remove the cloth and the filings.
> Most of the frames I ream are bare, but if not I usually ream the tube
> with the frame held upside-down, so the particles drop out of the
> But the cloth is a good idea.
> -John Thompson (firstname.lastname@example.org)
> Appleton WI USA
> Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 10:25:09 -0700
> From: "David Joshel" <email@example.com>
> To: "Anthony Kinder" <firstname.lastname@example.org>,
> Subject: Re: [CR]WTB:Seat Tube Reamer 27.2mm
> Hello All,
> for cleaning/deburring seat tubes have had good results with this
> Find a wooden dowel ( broom handle ) close in diameter to the seat
> Tightly wrap 100 grit sandpaper around the dowel until it's just
> slightly smaller than the tube hole, and use it to clean the inside of
> the tube by moving it back and forth inside. Blow it out with canned
> air or clean with a damp rag to get dust/ metal particles out.
> Dave Joshel
> Davis CA usa
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Anthony Kinder" <email@example.com>
> To: <firstname.lastname@example.org>
> Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2008 6:29 AM
> Subject: [CR]WTB:Seat Tube Reamer 27.2mm
>> Hi all,
>> Am looking for a fixed size reamer to clean out seat tubes. Generally
>> all work is on Colnago frames so needs to be 27.2mm. (I make
>> I don't know if that is the exact size of the reamer or if it is a
>> smidge larger.
>> I had enough of standing over a frame and putting most of my 200lb
>> mass onto a seatpost only to end up with a ghastly zig-zig down the
>> pole even with suitable lube.
>> Help, advice and tools for sale greatly appreciated as always.
>> Anthony Kinder
>> Perth, Western Australia