[CR]Block Chain screw

(Example: Framebuilders:Cecil Behringer)

Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 08:39:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Harry Schwartzman" <harryschwartzman@yahoo.com>
To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
Subject: [CR]Block Chain screw


My Frejus, with an inch pitch block chain, uses the screw and nut method, I t was like that when I bought it and since the bike was bone stock it must have been how it came, most probably out of Avenia's shop as I am in New Yo rk City. Occasionally I have to tighten the nut and I've found that hand ti ghtening works the best, as it loosens whether I use a tool or not.

H appy Fourth to all, and my condolences to the British on the list for the l oss of their Colonies and the revenue stream from the tea tax.

-Harry
Schwartzman
Long Island City, NY


----- Original Message ----


Fr om: "classicrendezvous-request@bikelist.org" <classicrendezvous-request@bik elist.org> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Sent: Friday, July 4, 200 8 11:04:02 AM Subject: Classicrendezvous Digest, Vol 67, Issue 17

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CR

Today's Topics:

1. Wool Fans .. . Think Pink !! (Robert Clair) 2. 1970's Zeus decals (Tom Jue) 3. California Masi In Time for July 4th (Ron Danner) 4. c.1960 Viking 'The 25 Model', stuff wanted, Tales from the Bike Shop... ( Larry Myers) 5. BIANCHI LEGNANO original decal 1935's (Giorgio Panciro li) 6. RE: Re: Classicrendezvous Digest, Vol 67, Issue 13 WAIT Wheel

weight! (Neil Foddering) 7. Ebay Outing (Hilary Stone)

8. 1*3/16" Roller chain master links (Harvey Sachs) 9. Re: Cirqu e bike classification: "original" v. "restored" (Harvey Sachs)

10. Re: Semi-annual stuck seatpost thread (Harvey Sachs) 11. Is THIS w hy I haven't seen many Columbus seatposts? (devotion finesse)

12. Early High-End Trek 13. Re: reply to stuck seatpost discussion (Joh n Betmanis)

------------------------------------------------------- ---------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 22:13:03 -0500 From: "Robert C lair" <r.clair@cox.net> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Subject: [ CR]Wool Fans ... Think Pink !! Message-ID: <001001c8dd83$df64f950$0202a8c 0@Leo> References: <005201c8dd3b$feefda80$6701a8c0@gatewaygpcezcz>

<BAY123-W7E92253BA9C2300B5BB5ED1980@phx.gbl> <8801bb250807031333k24e9 f83gb6d04e98bf96024d@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain;format=fl owed;charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original MIME-Version: 1. 0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 1

.. . alex has added a neat "Think Pink' bit.

http://www.vintagevelos.com/

robert clair alexandria, va 22308 usa ----------------------- -------

Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 21:46:53 -0700 (PDT) From: Tom Jue <fy rtom@yahoo.com> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: [CR]1970's Zeus decals Message-ID: <38393.56796.qm@web51809.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Co ntent-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 MIME-Version: 1.0 Preceden ce: list Reply-To: fyrtom@yahoo.com Message: 2

Hi,

Just want ed to know if anyone might have a set of these in their vintage dr awer(s ).

http://ebay.com/<blah> 59021&ss PageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih7

I just missed out on the a uction and have a restoration project going on no w. The original decals are somewhat shot.

Thanks, Tom Jue San Francisco, CA

--- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts --- multipart/alternative t ext/plain (text body -- kept) text/html --- ----------------------- -------

Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 00:57:45 -0400 From: "Ron Danner" <ron .danneur@gmail.com> To: "Classicrendezvous@Bikelist.Org" <Classicrendezvo us@bikelist.org> Subject: [CR]California Masi In Time for July 4th Mess age-ID: <5da6a790807032157v763883beybc34e337add242c8@mail.gmail.com> Cont ent-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Tr ansfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 3

Greetings fellow 2 wheelers:

I spent the evening reassembling a sterling shining Calif ornia Twin Plate Masi. A friend of mine rescued such Masi from the bowles of a midwester cave. He had it repainted redecaled and I helped him sel ect and assemble suitable kit: all Campagnolo NR, Cinelli 64-40 bars, tu bulars and a stunning Red San Marco Regal.

Something was quite cool and ephemeral about the reassembly of this american classic on the eve of July 4th. My pal had mis-purchased cable housing so we ended up using a stretch of blue on the front and red for the rear.

Wheels trued up--h eadset solid and chain tension just so for the perfect NR shift and the t est ride was on. All I heard was the gleeful yips and yowls of my pal as sub 50 California Masi raced though the darkness--a perfect red white an d blue............

Happy 4th all........

-- Ron Danner Hop B ottom Township Susquehanna PA USA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Ju l 2008 00:25:54 -0700 (PDT) From: Larry Myers <curmudgeon1957@yahoo.com>

To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: [CR] c.1960 Viking 'The 25 Model', stuff wanted, Tales from the Bike Shop... Message-ID: <688160. 60289.qm@web55403.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset =iso-8859-1 MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Reply-To: curmudgeon 1957@yahoo.com Message: 4

Howdy, all...

I just scored a c.1 960 Viking track/path racer ('The 25 Model' is proudly e mblazoned on the toptube, just aft of the Nervex headlugs) from it's origin al owner, via craigslist; I would love to hear from anyone on the CR list w ho can tel l me more about this particular bike.....I bought the frameset on ly, and have set it up with all French & British parts. The seller says t hat it originally came with steel cranks (most likely Williams?); I have so me Durax cranks that would look nice on it, but all of the compatible cotte

red-type axles that I own are too long to get me a good chain line, so I am

looking for a cottered-type BB axle that will work for a pista setup, or a complete Williams (or BSA) crankset.......sweet parts available for tr ade (or filthy lucre, if nessecary). Bonus points (or dollars) for havin g the r ight cotters; I hate grinding them........:)

I will be post ing pics of this bike (as well as some mystery frames that I would appre ciate help in identifying; I know some of you guys LIVE for this sort of thing...) over the next few days; keep an eye out....

The joys of working in a bike shop:

Got to do a frame repair on a beautiful Mauri zzio 'Gran Prix' today; gorgeo us late 60's-early 70's road bike- I have seen only one other of these bike s...this one got t-boned by a car on it 's first ride after being stored for almost 20 years, I am very proud of being able to make the damage complete ly disappear; and I will post pict ures of the bike once I have the owner' s approval...another customer cam e in today, looking to build up a batter ed & bent Peugeot UO-8 frame int o a fixie- pretty typical request around he re, except for one thing....c rammed unremoveably into the frame's steerer t ube, was a steel Cinelli r oad stem (with badge!), in good condition, that h ad to date to the late 50's or so. The customer "likes the long reach", and absolutely refused t o part with the stem, or the frame it is fused into... .I also got to res cue a mid/late 50's Frejus 'Tour de France' frame fr om fixie purgatory; so the week wasn't a total loss!

Swap Meet @ The Recyclery July 13t h; lots of on-topic stuff generally shows up. Link to http://www.TheRecyclery.co m for more info....

Cheers to all, Larry Myers, Portland, OR, USA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 09 :28:09 +0200 From: "Giorgio Panciroli" <info@vintagetransfers.it> To: < classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Subject: [CR]BIANCHI LEGNANO original dec al 1935's Message-ID: <274FDDB76D95477090361D7A4415B09F@mirella77239f1>

Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Pr ecedence: list Message: 5

Hello all, I have put in auction on ebay a very important ORIGINALDecal for Bianchi, Legnano and other Italian r aging bike bike from 1935's for under saddleback. If you want you can s ee it on :

http://ebay.com/<blah> 269502

All the best

Giorgio Panciroli Reggio Emilia Italia

-------- ----------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 08:09:30 +0000 From: Ne il Foddering <neilfoddering@hotmail.com> To: <crumpy6204@aol.com>, <class icrendezvous@bikelist.org> Subject: RE: [CR]Re: Classicrendezvous Digest, Vol 67, Issue 13 WAIT Wheel weight! Message-ID: <BAY141-W772E96EF A2AA7843F08A5BF9B0@phx.gbl> In-Reply-To: <c6b.35c8daa6.359ee569@aol.com>

References: <c6b.35c8daa6.359ee569@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 6

I can see where you went wrong, John. I read in an old "Cycling" magazin e the habits of some "crack" riders, and some of them smoked. 60 a day a nd roadster tyres, and you'd have mullered the opposition.

Neil Foddering Weymouth, Dorset, England


> From: Crumpy6204@aol.c om
> Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 22:31:05 -0400
> To: classicrendezvous@bikel ist.org
> Subject: [CR]Re: Classicrendezvous Digest, Vol 67, Issue 13 WA IT Whe el weight!
>
> In ALL the years I raced Time trails in Bri t land, I do NOT remember E VER
> racing on my heavy training wheels. Maybe per this I should have! I tri ed
> shaving my legs, Brylcream ,Full English breckie. Even a PINT! Oh wel l! I tried.
> Cheers John Crump OldstilshavemylegsBrit. Parker, Co USA
>
>
>
> ********** ****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
> fuel-efficient u sed cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00 050000000007)
>
>


> _______________________________________________
> Classicrendezvous mailing list
> Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> http://www.bikelist.org /mailman/listinfo/classicrendezvous

__________________________________ _______________________________ The next generation of Windows Live is he re http://www.windowslive.co.uk/get-live

------------------------------

Date: Fr i, 04 Jul 2008 11:19:24 +0100 From: Hilary Stone <hilary.stone@blueyonder .co.uk> To: Classicrendezvous <Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Subject: [CR] Ebay Outing Message-ID: <486DF92C.5030202@blueyonder.co.uk> Conte nt-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Precedence: list Message: 7

This week its a bit of a British frame bonanza ... with some really gorg eous fancy lugged frames from Hobbs, Gillott and Ellis Briggs. The other British frames are really rather interesting too - including a rare lar ge 24inin track frame from Carpenter, a really early Condor (a bit more of the history of who made Condor frames came to light with this frame - Vic Braysher built many, maybe all Condor frames in the period 1952-55) , a really stunning Roy Thame Campionissiomo TT frame and an unusual Car lton Pro. The latter frame has shot-in seatstays but without the Victor seat lug - I have seen this on a Carlton or two before but dating this i s difficult as this frame lacks a number - it came from an ex-England te am mechanic who had bought it from one of his sources... There ar e some great parts too - a couple of the early Cinelli 1A stems with nut clamp fastening - one is not anodized making it from the middle 60s. An d there are a couple of really nice NOS stems, a Cinelli 1R and a panto' d 3TTT. There's a couple of very good pairs of Stronglight 49D cranks - one pair from the 50s and one from the 60s... And there's a Campy seatpo st I have never seen before - a first pattern twin-bolt SR in the short length! Amongst the Brit parts there are pairs of 26in and 27inDunlo p stainless steel rims, a stunning Constrictor Boa light bracket, a very

good pair of Brampton B8 pedals, a very useable Brooks B17 Swallow s addle, Lauterwasser bars and pre-WWII Airlite large flange hubs. The continental goodies include a Simplex 543 gear, NOS Universal Extra brak e callipers, Titan stems and bars, Cinelli track stem and Mafac Racer br akes.

The auctions finish on Sunday as usual and all are best fo und using my ebay identity hilarystone or go to:

http://search.eb ay.com/_W0QQsassZhilarystoneQQfrppZ50QQfsopZ32QQfsooZ2QQrdZ0

Hilary St one, Bristol, England

CAMPAGNOLO TIPO HUBS w WEINMANN ALESA 27in RIMS

ROY THAME CAMPIONISSIMO FRAME c1978 23.5in Very Beautiful

CARLTON PRO 1960s 23ยท25in

ELLIS BRIGGS INTERNATIONAL 24in c1953 B eautiful Lugs

HOBBS SUPERBE 24in 1946 Fancy ornate lugs Orig finish

GILLOTT FLEUR DE LYS 1959 22in Gorgeous fancy lugs

CONDOR ROAD FRAM E 1953 23in lovely lugs

CARPENTER TRACK FRAME c1953 24in

DUNLOP S TAINLESS 32/40H 26in RIMS 1940s/50s

DUNLOP STAINLESS 32/40H 27in RIMS 1940s/50s

DUNLOP HOTTA CARBON-FIBRE FORKS for 700C wheel

EDDY MERCKX FORKS Early 1980s

VELROMA 11cm STEM 1960s Badged NOS

CINE LLI STEEL 11cm TRACK STEM Rechromed

3TTT PANTOGRAPHED STEM 10cm NOS

CINELLI 1A 11.5cm STEM 1960s/70s Standard nut clamp

CINELLI 1A 12cm STEM 1960s not anodized

TITAN 11cm STEM 1950s/60s

TITAN 6.5c m STEM 1950s/60s

CINELLI 1R 11.5cm STEM 1980s NOS NIP

STRONGLIGHT 49D CRANKSET 170mm 1950s

STRONGLIGHT 49D CRANKSET 165mm 1960s

TA CRANKSET 172.5mm Practically unused

COLORAL FEEDING BOTTLE w handle b ar cage rare

CAMPAGNOLO TRACK 68-P-120 BOTTOM BRACKET AXLE NOS

CA MPAGNOLO NUOVO RECORD SEATPOST 26.4mm No limit mark

CAMPAGNOLO 13-18T FREEWHEEL Almost unused

CAMPAGNOLO C-RECORD SEATPOST 27.2mm seatpin c1 986

CAMPAGNOLO SUPER RECORD 2-BOLT SEATPOST 27mm NOS

CAMPAGNOLO C HORUS ERGOPOWER LEVERS 8-SPEED 1996 NOS

1930s LEATHER TOESTRAPS NOS Ra re & Beautiful

AIRLITE LARGE FLANGE DOUBLE FIXED HUBS PRE-WAR Rare!!

HARDEN LARGE FLANGE FIXED HUBS Track Pista

BSA REAR WHEEL WINGNU TS 1930s NOS

BLUMFIELD SMALL DOUBLE FIXED REAR HUB 40H 1940s/50s

BRAMPTON B8 PEDALS 1940s/50s

BROOKS B17 SWALLOW SADDLE

BROOKS B17 STANDARD SADDLE 1970s/80s

BROOKS PROFESSIONAL SADDLE 1970s

CAMPA GNOLO BULLET TWIST GRIP MTB SHIFTERS 8-spd c1992

CAMPAGNOLO PISTA 32H REAR HUB 1960s

CINELLI PISTA (TRACK) BARS 1980s

TITAN MAES BARS 3 8cm 1950s/60s

LAUTERWASSER SHALLOW BARS 1930s

CONSTRICTOR BOA LIG HT BRACKET 1930s/50s Stunning

CYCLO BENELUX FRONT ROD OPERATED GEAR 19 50s NOS

HETCHINS SWEATSHIRT XL Almost unused

HURET LOUISON BOBET DOUBLE GEAR LEVER

KARRIMOR SADDLEBAG 1950s/60s

UNIVERSAL EXTRA BR AKE CALLIPERS NOS

TA 39T 3/32in CYCLOTOURIST OUTER CHAINRING

STUR MEY ARCHER S5/2 ALLOY SHELL 5-SPD HUB GEAR 36H NOS

STURMEY ARCHER 4-SP D TRIGGER 1940s/50s

SIMPLEX 543 REAR GEAR 1950s

MAFAC RACER DURAL FORGE BRAKESET 1950s/60s

LYOTARD STEEL RAT TRAP PEDALS 1950s

LYO TARD FAUCHEAX PEDALS

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2008 07:01:33 -0400 From: Harvey Sachs <hmsachs@verizon.net> To: C lassic Rendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>, ternst1@cox.net

Subject: [CR]1*3/16" Roller chain master links Message-ID: <486E030D.6 050709@verizon.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format =flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedenc e: list Reply-To: hsachs@alumni.rice.edu Message: 8

Thanks, Ted.

I think I have a few new master links for 1*3/16 ROLLER chain, that my

mother-in-law found somewhere and gave me. They look strange, because

they are very short, just spanning the space between the close-together

rollers. Those who are desperate may contact me.

thanks harvey s achs mcLean va 22101

Class time. Are we talking 1" roller or block chain? Diamond roller chains had the master male half of the link with the rivets that came through the link and protruded out the other side ma ybe 3/32". These two pegs not rivets had a cutout around the peg and the clip on plate was drilled so that the holes fit into the slot with the pr oper dimension. To install, one bends the chain so that the pegs get clos er and the plate falls over and locks into the slot. The beveled edge i s up or out, the sharp edge goes down or in as it were, and that sharp ed ge lets the plate pop off easier when the two pegs are "squeezed/ compres sed closer. The older Diamond chains had a "hear it snap" stamped into th e locking plate. This was probably a Diamond copyright. If your link has one side in the chain, and the other not, take a narrow plier and squ eeze the exposed peg and the roller where the other peg is in the chain, and you should be able to get enuf pressure on the pegs to compress them close enuf so that the plate can be removed. Then you can turn the plate around and do it correctly when you put the chain on the bike. If you i ndeed do have a "block" chain, then I suspect it's not a correct master.

I've not seen a snap link on a block chain that was later than the '10's

maybe '20's. The English and others often used a nut and screw, where the master plate was threaded on one side. The little screw was installed and the nut screwed on and then tapped with a hammer to keep the nut from coming off and the chain from coming apart. The tightness of the mas ter link could be adjusted for play using the screw and nut. Many block chain makers used a "C" clip that went into the slotted pegs. The loo se plate was there to keep the pegs in the proper distance, the "C" clip

acted as a keeper when pushed into position.I think Diamond was the only

one that used the little spring and plate over the two pegs. One leg of the spring which looks like a skinny wire "C" clip in that it also fi ts into the slot/channel in the pegs. One leg went under the other like c rossed legs and the keeper spring outer leg had a little arc in it where it went over the inner leg as it crossed over and locked into the channel . You can interchange some of the block masters if the pegs/rivets are th e same size and the pegs are the same length to fit properly. Some chai ns have different diameter pegs/rivets/studs so they are either too lo ose or too big and won't go into the rivet hole in the block. If you have a genuine block chain and a roller master, then it won't work. The two t ypes aren't interchangeable because the link sizes are reversed on block and roller chains even tho they are both 1x3/16" and will fit the same

chainrings and cogs. Now it's your turn to see what you have and hopef ully this will help you make it happy so you can ride it. Happy 4th!

Ted Ernst
Palos Verdes Estates
CA USA


----- Original Message -----


From: "Stephen James" <sj52@hotmail.com> To: <shop@cyclart.com>; <clas sicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2008 5:38 PM Subje ct: RE: [CR]Question about one-inch pitch block chain ------------------- -----------

Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2008 07:32:42 -0400 From: Harvey Sachs <hmsachs@verizon.net> To: Classic Rendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist .org>, Edward.H.Albert@hofstra.edu, "weigle >> Peter Weigle" <j pweigle@sbcglobal.net> Subject: Re: [CR]Cirque bike classification: "orig inal" v. "restored" Message-ID: <486E0A5A.90807@verizon.net> Content-Ty pe: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0

Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8BIT Precedence: list Reply-To: hsachs@al umni.rice.edu Message: 9

Well, I guess that I did set off a bit of a firestorm, with many on- and off-list responses, all of them thoughtful . I liked Eddie Albert's (below) from the perspective of a judge and exp erienced collector. Clearly, we all have different perspectives, and the discussion has helped me clarify my values. Maybe I can summarize wher e it has gotten me, recognizing that others have different priorities.

1) I didn't start collecting. I just didn't sell a few bikes that got

older, and discovered that I had a small collection of nice bikes. Bike s that I ride for pleasure, and for the memories they hold. We've had at

least three of our bikes for more than 30 years. 2) First time at Cir que, many decades ago (?), I was disappointed that the judges didn't sha re my high opinion of my "perfect" '65 Paramount (which isn't). Moral: Peter Weigle is right: call out the runners up; make more people happy.

3) Since then, I guess I've gotten more comfortable in my own skin. My

bikes are going to be ridden, and they are going to get scuffed. and I'm

not good about cleaning the dust and mud off them. I figure that the

major reason to show them is that some folks will be interested, and

they will see through the dust. I've ridden my '38 Paramount on a centu ry and lots of other rides, and it has paint chips in several places. So be it; I'm gonna ride with a brake when I ride on the road. 4) So, I'll leave the conversation about how to do criteria and judging to my great friends who enjoy this, and maybe figure a way to identify my scarred bi kes with purple hearts. :-) 5) But, a parting shot: I do think that "Orig inal" or "Unrestored" criteria should apply only to the frameset, not th e piece-parts hung on it. Ain't no good way to tell about the parts, so let''s not abuse ourselves. FWIW, I also agree with the spirit of Edwar d's suggestion about not showing a bike that is a mish-mash if you expec t it to be seen as a vintage. But, I'm not opposed to new or old framese ts with modern parts. Just not for representing as vintage.

thanks, everyone, for the good vibes and great thoughts.

harvey sachs mcLea n va, estados unidos de america

++++++++++++++++++++++++ Ed Alber t wrote: Harvey,

Your post raises questions that go to the very hear t of the issue of judging, questions that we faced at this years Cirque. (I hope I am not in for a barrage of hate mail now). And, questions tha t have come up after every Cirque at least as long as I have been involve d. 1. In the first place your post correctly points to a problematic iss ue but only one of many and cries out for our \u201chobby\u201d to establish mo re formal rules for judging or to give up the judging entirely. My own

feelings on this matter are on record and I will not bore you all with

them again 2. Re the specifics of the post concerning restored vs. un restored. In the main I believe the spirit of Peter\u2019s suggestion is co rrect. The Judges this year were sometimes at a loss to decide if a bike was in its original condition or was a repaint. In a few cases we got it wrong. Insofar as time was short and there was nobody around to ask, we made our best judgment call. In my own view when one talks about \u201cunr estored\u201d the central criteria is paint and, secondarily, parts. Does t he bike, in the main, retain the original finish put on the bike at the t ime it was made and are the parts ones that could, conceivably, have been on the bike when the bike was assembled. 3. If the bike is deemed unr estored and the parts are \u201crelatively\u201d correct for the date given, th en judging can proceed on other criteria. Does, for example, a bike ident ified as say 1975 which has a rear Campag derailleur dated Pat. 74 or 75 have its original derailleur or a replacemen t (for whatever reason)\u2026wh o can tell? We must assume if not its originality at least its correctne ss. But, on the other hand, if a bike dated, say 1962, has a Nuovo Recor d Derailleur and not a \u201cRecord\u201d model then, IMHO that is a point agai nst it. 4. We viewed many beautiful unrestored bikes this year that cont ained a mishmash of parts that were clearly on the bike because it was, f irst and foremost, a rider and these parts worked. I see no problem in t hat except that if one enters a bike to be judged than one must realize t hat some sort of criteria must be applied and inappropriate parts is an o bvious one and, again IMHO, one that merits deductions when comparing to others in the class that contain if not original, at least period appropr iate parts. If one does not care at least to remove the modern oversize waterbottle from the cage than I have to ask why bother to enter the bik e for judging in the first place. Display the bike\u2026absolutely, but to expect to be considered seriously for an award, absolutely not. 5. Pet er\u2019s Post (pun intended) also made reference to the usefulness of inc luding runners up in each category as a way of encouraging more participa nts and giving them incentive for next time. I am in full agreement with that suggestion.

I am also in favor of retaining a revamped, more obj ective, judging process. Judging improves the breed while the \u201cI\u2019m o k, your ok\u201d perspective leads to mediocrity. Let the chips fall.

Edward Albert Chappaqua, New York, U.S.A. ----------------------------- -

Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2008 07:39:34 -0400 From: Harvey Sachs <hmsachs@ verizon.net> To: Classic Rendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Su bject: Re: [CR]Semi-annual stuck seatpost thread Message-ID: <486E0BF6.60 80408@verizon.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format =flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedenc e: list Reply-To: hsachs@alumni.rice.edu Message: 10

Maybe I can a dd a poignant note to Dale's precautionary message. There's an old joke:

Q: why are spoke wrenches sold so cheaply by bike shops? A: Because the unskilled can do so much damage with them, so quickly.

It was a sa d day for me when I was asked to look at a nice British frameset with th e seat tube cut about all the way through by a hacksaw blade, in a clums y effort to remove a stuck post. Nice long slit that didn't go quite thr ough the wall, and was mostly in the area reinforced by the lug. But, not a pretty sight.

harvey sachs mcLean va where it is the fourth of July, and I'm grateful to live in a country that accepted my parents as refugees long ago. A country where we've always had high aspirations, even when we fall far short of them, hurting ourselves and others. ++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Chris wrote:

< <...am finally considering simply cutting the post off then cutting it i nternally in two places, the length of the post, to remove it in pieces. >>

?

This sounds good and can work... but in actuality it is a lo t more difficult than it sounds, is messy in extreme and is sooo much wo rk. See my earlier post.

Dale Brown cycles de ORO Bike Shop 141 0 Mill Street Greensboro, North Carolina 27408 USA 336-274-5959 ----- -------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 08:57:53 -0400 From: devotion finesse <devotion_finesse@hotmail.com> To: CR discussion list < classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Subject: [CR]Is THIS why I haven't seen m any Columbus seatposts? Message-ID: <BLU113-W436C6C956C4A5AA0A3B1D0F59B0@ phx.gbl> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 11

I few weeks ago, a buddy gave me a seatpost with the Columbus dove stampe d on either side. It has a 1mm wide red band painted around it near the to p and a black clamping me chanism with a single bolt attachment. There is a second small "set pin" on the front of the clamp, accessible from the un derside, which allows you to adjust the saddle angle. There were 4 " sti ffening rifles" along the inside of the post as well, a la SLX. Kind of neat looking, I though t. But the single bolt clamp was odd, as the seat would basically pivot on the bolt until I REALLY cranked on it to tighten it down. Perfect for my townie/beater/fixed-gear Falcon-Merckx. That is, until today. I am riding along the super-smooth NYC streets, when I suddenly happen up on o ne of those rare "pot holes" and hear POP! I stand up, off the saddl e, only to realize that there is something hitting the back of my leg and ru bbing on my wheel. That would be the Concor saddle I had attached to th

e seat stays with a section of old chain wrapped in inner tube. The post ha

d sheared in half right where it bends into the clamping area, apparentl y along a crack that must have started at the set-pin hole. I popped into a local shop and upon removing the broken post from the frame , I no ticed another oddity. The pillar/shaft itself had a fairly severe bend, clearly visible to the naked eye. The area above the seat lug was cock ed back a good couple of degrees. This must have been happening gradual ly, as I noticed that the nose of th e saddle seemed high a week or so ag o and I had to make an adjustment with the set pin. It seems to me tha t these two flaws were completely unrelated. Anybody els e have similar issues with the quality of Columbus seatposts? Is this why they are rel atively uncommon?

Matthew Bowne Scratching my head in... Brooklyn , New York _____________________________________________________________ ____ Need to know now? Get instant answers with Windows Live Messenger.

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Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2008 9:40:14 -0500 From: <jeff-arg@bizwi.rr.com> To: <classicren dezvous@bikelist.org> Subject: [CR]Early High-End Trek Message-ID: <6gv fio$628c9g@rrcs-agw-01b.hrndva.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset =iso-8859-1 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Prece dence: list Message: 12

I picked up an ealier (approximately 1981) l ugged steel Trek bike. I don't know much about them. The bike is white wi th blue decal panels and blue head tube, gold Trek head badge. It has a sl oping crown fork and Cinelli bottom bracket shell. Strangely, the drop out s are Shimano, with the rear being vertical dropouts without adjusters.

The bike came with a limited Super Record gruppo (Nuovo BB and Super Leg gera pedals but the rest Super Record), Cinelli 1R Stem and old-logo Giro D Italia bars. I purchased the bike from the original owner.

I bought it for the components and plan on selling the frameset, which is in mint co ndition.

Is it wrong to break this bike up? Do these have any colle ctability?

Jeff Pyzyk Milwaukee, WI

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Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2008 11:03:18 -0400 From: John Betmanis <johnb @oxford.net> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Subject: Re: [CR]repl y to stuck seatpost discussion Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20080704110318.0144a 8f8@mailhost.oxford.net> In-Reply-To: <BAY102-W2382ABB2ABF6D66E27E1B9B298 0@phx.gbl> References: <MONKEYFOODeCs6CGFvY0000200e@monkeyfood.nt.phred.o rg> <MONKEYFOODeCs6CGFvY0000200e@monkeyfood.nt.phred.org> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list

Message: 13

At 09:18 AM 03/07/2008 -0500, Manfred Hegwer wrote:
>
>Heating the aluminum seat post may very well work but don't heat it to the
>point of trying to melt it. You can use a torch like the one a plumbe r wou
>ld use to sweat copper pipe. Heat the exposed aluminum post long enough to
> allow it to conduct the heat down into the seat tube. The di fferent metal
>s have different rates of thermal expansion. This movemen t will often brea
>k the bond between the two metals. I recently used th is method to remove a
> pedal stuck in a crank arm.

In the case of t he pedal in the crank arm, you (usually) have steel pedal spindle in an a luminum alloy crank, so heat will loosen the bond due to the higher coeff icient of expansion of the aluminum. With the seatpost you have the oppos ite. However, heat could still help break the bond due to the difference in expansion crushing any corrosion products in the interface. Repeated h eating and cooling is always good.

John Betmanis Woodstock, Ontario

Canada ------------------------------

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