[CR]more on wheel building

(Example: Framebuilding:Technology)

From: "robert st.cyr" <rpstcyr@hotmail.com>
To: "classicrendezvous@bikelist.org" <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 16:46:03 -0700
Subject: [CR]more on wheel building

All, I have enjoyed the discusion on wheel building and thought I would add my t wo cents worth. I have built hundreds of wheels, finding the best results
   following Gerd Schraners methods. I use his techniques for the wheel build ing classes I teach here at U.C. Davis, finding them the most helpful and
   easiest for rookie builders to follow. Most of the time I tension by "feel", occasionally using a tensiometer to
   keep myself honest. When building wheels in quantity, one developes a fe el for how the components interact and interface with one another. For exam ple, this year I have built a couple dozen large flange fixie wheels, 3 2 hole, DT straight guage spokes and Velocity deep V rims. I simply know by squeezing the pairs of spokes whether or not I am over tensioned, unde r tensioned or just right. With the rims I noticed a pattern of the spokes closest to the seam to tension more quickly due to the thicker material in the rim at the seam. When at Interbike last week I asked one of the velocit y reps If this was the case and he said it was true. One can compensate by adding a 1 mm longer spoke or simply backing off the spokes in that area ju st slightly. I think it is important to note that the tensiometer is a most
   helpful tool, but is not the law. It is simply a guide to evaluate the r elative tension as compared to the lateral and concentric trueness of a whe el. As with tolerances, one must learn to say "when". You can true a wheel fo r untold hours but there is only so perfect a wheel can be. Generally speak ing, I spend about one hour for the whole process from measuring, cutti ng, lacing, tensioning , and trueing. I take my time and enjoy the pr ocess. I do not care that someone can lace a wheel in 5 minutes or less-I w ould not want someone to blast through a wheel build for me-I appreciate th e care and patience. The TS 2 discussion requires some additional comments. I love the TS2 for a ll my general wheel truing needs. I find it to be the quickest jig for dish ing and truing a wheel. I have seven of them here at the Bike Barn, in ad dition to a pair of the aluminum TS 3's with the gauges and an old Var jig.
   I think that each TS 2 has its own personality and each takes some getting
   used to. Some stay in adjustment better and longer then others, and some
   need repairs more frequently then others. Some of this variation has to do
   with employees over clamping the wheel into the stand. For setting the dis h I use the special tool provided by Park, but one can use a properly dis hed wheel to set the jig as well. Having worked in numerous shops over the years I have noticed that most shops do not know how to maintain their TS 2 's, nor do they even use them properly. Many put a valve cap under one of
   the calipers and only work off the other side. This is a compensation for the jig being out of adjustment and not knowing how to put the jig right. C hecking once a month is all that is required for well used machines like mi ne (we do 10,000 repairs per year). Robert St.CyrSacramento, California
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