[CR]Re: removing never before removed pedals- Mondia Special

(Example: Framebuilding:Paint)

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2008 15:37:50 -0800 (PST)
From: "devon warner" <crabulux@yahoo.com>
To: Jan Heine <heine94@earthlink.net>, Jeff Slotkin <jeffslotkin@comcast.net>
In-Reply-To: <F357A41D-4B94-460C-A552-307926A4389B@comcast.net>
cc: Classicrendezvous List <Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
Subject: [CR]Re: removing never before removed pedals- Mondia Special

guys, thanks for the advice, which is also moral support to me! it ended well. i soaked in some liquid wrench, just what i happened to have laying around. it seemed to soak in very fast, so i left it a few hours. a friend who has stronger arms than me (all my friends do i think) took the pedals off, no problem. it seems a mirracle because i doubt i ever greased these parts when i put them together, but really, it was so long ago i don't remember. but they came off just fine and are now on my new Mondia, this time i know i greased them. once i get the bars shelacked i will post a few photos. still working on the squeeky mafac recers.
thanks much!
devon warner
san francisco, USA


--- On Wed, 11/26/08, Jeff Slotkin wrote:


> From: Jeff Slotkin <jeffslotkin@comcast.net>
> Subject: [CR]Re: removing never before removed pedals?
> To: "Jan Heine" <heine94@earthlink.net>
> Cc: "Classicrendezvous List" <Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Date: Wednesday, November 26, 2008, 9:10 PM
> If the threads were fine, it might be wrong to blame the
> gorilla. I've replaced a lot of cranks because of pedals
> installed not tightly enough, which causes thread damage as
> they come loose. Talk of the pedals' thread orientations
> causing "self tightening" does not match my
> observations. Rather, I think the reverse threads on the
> left, standard on right, are helpful for avoiding the need
> for absurdly high torque of the nature of that required for
> the fixed cup of an Italian BB, but the pedal-to-crank
> interface is perhaps the least well-designed one on *classic
> bikes, and I think they need to be darn tight. Anti-seize is
> obviously called for, though grease might be a decent
> substitute, and dry is BAD. I wish we'd gone to Mr.
> Brandt's proposed taper here a long time ago.
>
> Granted, those whose pedals fall off are usually pretty
> clueless people who ride the thing until it's trashed,
> even though it was surely making noise, etc, that would have
> stopped most of us.
>
> *By "classic" I allude to the fact that some
> newish boners have been added to the pile, including early
> Shimano Octalink and these predictably often-creaky
> outboard-bearing BB's. Give me square-taper any day, so
> far.
>
> jeff slotkin
> charleston, SC USA
>
>
>
>
> On Nov 26, 2008, at 5:48 PM, Jan Heine wrote:
>
> _snip_
>
> >
> > A bigger problem are those gorillas who overtighten
> pedals. I once bought a bike where the pedals did not come
> off, come Liquid Wrench or Cheater Bars. It finally came
> down to sacrificing one or the other. The pedals were cheap,
> so I cut off the axles with a bandsaw, then machined off the
> stubs until the threads released. The threads in the crank
> were fine, by the way.
> >
> > Jan Heine
> > Editor
> > Bicycle Quarterly
> > 140 Lakeside Ave #C
> > Seattle WA 98122
> > http://www.bikequarterly.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > Classicrendezvous mailing list
> > Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> >
> http://www.bikelist.org/mailman/listinfo/classicrendezvous
>
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