Re: [CR]re: huret conundrum

(Example: Component Manufacturers:Ideale)

Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 19:33:55 -0700
From: "Steve Maas" <>
Subject: Re: [CR]re: huret conundrum
References: <>
In-Reply-To: <>

I thought the Huret derailleurs were originally designed to hang from a claw--certainly the Allvits were almost always used this way (see e.g. ebay item 150274407544). I've seen the Jubilees set up this way, too. This way there should be no problem of interfering with the sprockets.

Did later ones come with hardware for mounting on a drop-out with a hanger? Seems reasonable that they might.

By the way--you can create your very own back-up nut by getting a nut for a rotary potentiometer (AKA old-style volume control), which is very thin and 3/8-24 threading. These are readily available from electronics stores. Then, you just retap it for 10x1 mm, perhaps after reaming it out a smidgeon. The outer flats will, of course, have English dimensions, but that shouldn't be a big problem.

Steve Maas Long Beach, California, USA

Jerome & Elizabeth Moos wrote:
> What I was describing was placing the nut inside the DO, i.e. between the frame and the wheel, the tighten the nut while holding the bolt. This fixes the center bolt in position from the inside of the DO, the objective being to do this while leaving a small gap between the outside of the DO and the RD body, so the body can rotate. This does require a center bolt long enough to thread through the DO and engage the nut onside the DO. This is how the Jubilee RD are mounted on my early 70's Raleigh Competition and Super Tourer, with Huret DO.
> I don't know how Huret RD's were mounted on Simplex DO's. Since Simplex DO's were not threaded, the above setup would not work, as the nut would pull the RD body all the way against the outside of the DO, unless they used a pivot bolt with an unthreaded shoulder, in which case one would wonder why they didn't do that on all of them. Personally my favorite RD's are Simplex, for a whole host of reasons, one of which is that they will mount easily on Simplex, Campy, Huret, or almost any other DO.
> Regards,
> Jerry Moos
> wrote:
> John Thompson wrote:
> It helps if you have all the pieces to the bolt; the tabbed washer for
> your style of dropout and the nut (for the back side of the regular
> pivot bolt) or allen bolt (for the split pivot bolt) so you don't have
> to crank the bolt too tightly against the dropout. If these pieces are
> missing, you may have trouble locating replacements and may have to
> fabricate something yourself.
> *********
> I can see where putting the nut on the backside of the hanger bolt would be the preferred method, but the bolt I have (which appears original), is NOT LONG ENOUGH to accomodate the nut on the inner side of the hanger.
> Instead, as I read Jerry's post (and maybe I misunderstood it), seems to me you mount the nut on the front-side of the bolt, between the derailleur body and the hanger. thread the bolt into the hanger, then tighten the nut down on the claw and the hanger face using a cone wrench or similar, so there is a minute amount of space for the derailleur to swing freely. not dissimilar to adjusting a headset or bottom-bracket. Seems like it should work.
> With a longer bolt, one could make the more conventional arrangement, although there is the problem of clearing the freewheel or the chain. The method noted above avoids that problem, although it does displace the derailleur outboard the thickness of the nut..not a major problem, seems to me.
> Sound right?
> Charles Andrews
> Los Angeles