On Jan 3, 2009, at 9:02 AM, Mark Stonich wrote:
> At 1/2/2009 06:18 PM -0800, emeneff@earthlink.net wrote:
>> I never did the deal with heating up the hub shell. Never needed
>> to - I guess it wouldn't hurt to wave a propane torch gently
>> around the shell if you want to do that before you remove/replace.
>>
>> If you do not have a propane torch - don't sweat it (old plumbers
>> joke . . . groan).
>
> Mike,
> If you've done this without heat, there must be considerable
> variation in the press fits from hub to hub. (Or you are willing
> to use a lot more force than I am.) Once I got interrupted before
> getting the race completely out. About 3-4mm of the race was
> completely out of the shell yet it would not come out the rest of
> the way till I reheated it. For any press fit in aluminum, heat
> is always "Plan A". I just use a paint stripper heat gun. One of
> my most useful tools BTW and I've never used it to strip paint.
>
> Nail heads work OK, but I've also used a puller and it's nice to
> know they are coming out straight.
Reminds me... I took the races out of aluminum headsets with only gentle heat and gravity. I was going to get the headset anodized black (Campagnolo Super Record) so the steel races had to be removed from the aluminum headset cups. The aluminum expands so much more than the steel that the races just drop out from their own weight. Hard to believe I know, but true none the less.
Something else to think about. Only the lower races of a head set ever get damaged so what I've done in the past is remove the upper cup race and use it to replace the lower cup race that's dimpled from the bearings fretting the races. (yeah, i'm a real cheapskate... there i said it.)
Chuck
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