I used the knurled nuts to level one of the Nitto front racks that bolt to cantilever bosses. With the bottom attachment points set by the position of the cantilever brazeons, the only way to level the rack is by varying how far into the CP brake hole you insert the threaded "bolt" on the rack. Turned out the rack needed to be spaced out a few mm from the front of the fork. A few knurled nuts did the trick perfectly.
I also find these useful when mounting tubulars. When first mounting on a rim to stretch, I secure the valve stem with the nut first, to prevent the tubular sliding around too much as I stretch it onto the rim. This helps prevent damaging the valve stem while mounting. When mounting a prestretched tubular, I secure the valve stem with the nut to be sure the valve stem stays straight and perpenticular to the rim during mounting and inflation. Once the tire is mounted and inflated, you really don't need the dork nut any more.
Regards,
Jerry Moos
Big Spring, Texas, USA
> From: Charles T. Young <youngc@ptd.net>
\r?\n> Subject: Re: [CR] Presta Plastic Valve Caps ?? - Oops
\r?\n> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org, "ternst" <ternst1@cox.net>
\r?\n> Date: Thursday, June 4, 2009, 5:08 AM
\r?\n> Ted:
\r?\n>
\r?\n> I'm with you, pal. Valve caps do seem to be yet another
\r?\n> example of a solution in search of a problem.
\r?\n>
\r?\n> At least the "dork nuts" can be pressed into service here
\r?\n> and there. I've used them to hastily fit a pair of mudguards
\r?\n> recently without having to remove the fixing nut on brake
\r?\n> caliper centerbolts because the threading matches.
\r?\n> I've also had occasion to ream out the threading with a
\r?\n> chainsaw file and use them as bushings to mount a pair of
\r?\n> conventional nutted brakes to a frame set up for recessed
\r?\n> mounting. After removing threading and enlarging the ID a
\r?\n> bit, they can also be used as spacers to fit a front brake
\r?\n> caliper to a rear brake bridge by stacking out to the
\r?\n> threaded portion so the fixing nut can grab. Definitely a
\r?\n> bit of a bodge but it works and saves one from having to
\r?\n> remove the chroming, run a die over the unthreaded portion
\r?\n> and cutting to length.
\r?\n>
\r?\n> Any other examples out there for adaptive reuse of those
\r?\n> little knurled nuts?
\r?\n>
\r?\n> Charlie Young
\r?\n> Honey Brook, Pennsylvania USA
\r?\n> ----- Original Message ----- From: "ternst" <ternst1@cox.net>
\r?\n> To: "Raymond Dobbins" <raydobbins2003@yahoo.com>;
\r?\n> "Robert Clair" <r.clair@cox.net>;
\r?\n> "Wayne Bingham" <blkmktbks@gmail.com>
\r?\n> Cc: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
\r?\n> Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 11:57 PM
\r?\n> Subject: Re: [CR] Presta Plastic Valve Caps ?? - Oops
\r?\n>
\r?\n>
\r?\n> > Well guys and gals:
\r?\n> > Now your talking bling.
\r?\n> > If you wish a show bike then by all means pimp it
\r?\n> out.
\r?\n> > If you wish to recreate or have a working bike then
\r?\n> throw them in your unused stolen hotel ashtray.
\r?\n> > When you flat and have remove the tire in a hurry,
\r?\n> there is no time to waste removing valve caps, unless your
\r?\n> team car is there with a new wheel.
\r?\n> > Even out on a training or plain ol' ride, who wants to
\r?\n> bother undoing caps and putting them back on, spares and /or
\r?\n> original, especially if it's cool and you have stiff
\r?\n> fingers.
\r?\n> > About the only way a cap comes in handy is if the
\r?\n> tire/tube is in a holder and the cap would keep the valve
\r?\n> point from putting a hole in the casing/tube.
\r?\n> > But a cap could rub thru too.
\r?\n> > Of course, the caps come in handy if you wedge them
\r?\n> into your hand pump valve grommet and then shoot it out at
\r?\n> someone across the room. Carefule tho, don't hit anyones
\r?\n> eyes.
\r?\n> > The same goes for the little outside valve nut.
\r?\n> > When air goes out of the tube it draws the valve into
\r?\n> the casing and that nut titens up. Often it is so tite that
\r?\n> it can't be easily be undone with fingers.
\r?\n> > Naturally, the next vehicle will come along and stop
\r?\n> to offer you their toolkit. NOT.
\r?\n> > Back in the 50's thru '70's most everyone in the know
\r?\n> tossed the QR springs away also.
\r?\n> > They could jam in the dropouts ore between the axle
\r?\n> hole and skewer rod When you pulled the wheel into position
\r?\n> you would have the QR lever in hand and move it right into
\r?\n> center. The springs' centering effect was useless.
\r?\n> > This was common knowledge among all the coaches,
\r?\n> trainers, mechanics, and riders I knew and it wasn't even
\r?\n> discussed, just done.
\r?\n> > With the neocon invasion, much lore and sound
\r?\n> practices were forgotten/lost.
\r?\n> > So as nice as these things are, consider your
\r?\n> machine's purpose and equip accordingly. If you ride it then
\r?\n> you know and can educate your colleagues,
\r?\n> > If the machine is being shown, then a little card on
\r?\n> the display identifying these areas wll enlighten the
\r?\n> spectators, make the bike more accurate for judging, and
\r?\n> give you the satisfaction of having a real bike true to it's
\r?\n> purpose in your classic stable.
\r?\n> > Ted Ernst
\r?\n> > Palos Verdes Estates
\r?\n> > CA USA