An exchange responding to Matthewe Bownes Question: MB: Regarding the classic Suntour bar-end shifters with ratcheted retro-friction:
MB: 1) Install: When installing these on drop bars, must one always trim the bar flats to avoid bumping one's knees? If so, what is the appropriate amount to cut off? 1"? 1.5"? HS: Depends on your bars, your stem, your knees, and your riding style. I usually find I don't need to. Why? keep reading...
MB: 2) Cable Routing: I have seen two ways to route the cables with the above (drop bar) set-up. One is to run a loop which pokes out through the bar tape just beyond where the bar flats begins to curve into the hooks. The other is to follow the bend of the bars all the way toward the stem and exit with the cable very close to where the bar tape would end, next to the stem's bar clamp area. Is one of these functionally better than the other? Or used for different applications (Cross vs. Touring vs. Crit racing, etc.)? HS: All the way to the stem looks nicer, in my opinion. But, it will have more friction from more bends. And sometimes I've found that factory cables were a wee bit short. Those are the situations when I use the lower exit. Another disadvantage of the lower exit is that occasionally the loop gets caught on something in the shop, and it can get in the way of a front bag. Otherwise, it's just preference.
MB: 3) Cable Housing: Is it optimal to use the stainless steel (Campy style) derailleur cable housing? Or is there a better alternative? Will the modern (teflon-lined) stuff get the job done? HS: I no longer even use the older style for fishwrap. Modern stuff is vastly superior. First, the Campy stuff was based on round wire, while the new is based on square section. Much less likely to take a kink. Second, coated housing doesn't get water in it, and it's got a low-friction lining, so cable rust just doesn't happen any more. Brake cable housing works fine with Suntours, but may give problems with off-topic indexing systems.
MB: 4) Do you happen to have a CLEAN pair of said barcons to sell me? HS: No, sorry.
Now, the bottom line. When I'm setting up a bike for myself, I just don't tape the bars until after several rides. Sometimes months. Gives me time to really experiment with things like brake lever position, whether I need to trim for bar-ends, best looking and best function cable runs and lengths, etc. I believe that duct tape, which is totally inappropriate for ductwork, was actually invented for holding gear cables against handlebars, but that may be a minority opinion. :-)
BTW, that copper plumbing pipe cutter with the rollers you don't use much any more? Makes really nice tool for circumscising handlebar ends. :-)
harvey sachs, too early in the morning in
mcLean va.