Re: [CR] Cottered Bottom Brackets Have My Head Spinning


Example: History:Ted Ernst

From: ternst <ternst1@cox.net>
To: Jerome & Elizabeth Moos <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net>, <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>, Sean Flores <seaneee175@gmail.com>
References: <456661.58454.qm@web82206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 16:07:58 -0700
Subject: Re: [CR] Cottered Bottom Brackets Have My Head Spinning


I didn't catch all the posts, but isn't it first important to know the bearing shoulder width and cupwall thickness along with the L & R lengths to see what will really fit? With BB shells going from say 65mm to 74mm I would suspect that would be the first look to, to determine the proper size needed for crank clearance on either side and chainline.
Ted Ernst
Palos Verdes Estates
CA USA


----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerome & Elizabeth Moos"
To: ; "Sean Flores"
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 2:42 PM
Subject: Re: [CR] Cottered Bottom Brackets Have My Head Spinning



>
> Well, here is what I know. I recently purchased several TDC cottered BB
> axles to use with a Stronglight 3-arm crank in a 1954 French-made
> Duravia/Mecadural Aluminum frame. Two different models, between 135 and
> 137.5 mm overall length. This works nicely with the Stronglight with
> double chainrings.
>
> I have a Stronglight (I think) cottered axle marked 127 which measures
> just a bit more than 127mm overall length. This axle was too short for a
> Stronglight crank with double rings, so I assume 127 must be for a single
> chainring. So I would guess you will need an axle with an overall length
> something close to 127mm, at least for the Stronglight, not sure about the
> Williams.
>
> BTW, if you use the Stronglight cranks, be aware there are two different
> versions, the French version and the English version. The English version
> is marked "A" = Anglais on the arm and it uses an English axle, which had
> a different diameter than a French cottered axle. This was why I had to
> buy the TDC axles to use with my Stronglight cranks, most of which were
> the English version.
>
> BTW, did final installation today of the Stronglight cottered cranks on
> the Duravia, using a Park cotter pin press. This tool is really worth
> having if you deal with cottered cranks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jerry Moos
> Big Spring, Texas, USA
>
> --- On Sun, 7/19/09, Sean Flores <seaneee175@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> From: Sean Flores <seaneee175@gmail.com>
>> Subject: [CR] Cottered Bottom Brackets Have My Head Spinning
>> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
>> Date: Sunday, July 19, 2009, 3:12 PM
>> I'm in the process of building up a
>> 1950's Freddie Grubb frameset and would like to use era
>> appropriate cottered cranks. This will be built up as a 1x5,
>> with a single, non gear-case chainwheel in the front. I'm
>> deciding between a williams 5 pin or a Stronglight 3 arm
>> competition cottered chainset.
>>
>> I've been looking at both Sutherlands, the Bikelist
>> Archives and the chart on Peter Underwood's Classic
>> Lightweights site. I can't make heads or tails of the
>> archive posts and the chart on Classic Lightweights has some
>> major discrepancies when compared to the one in
>> Sutherland's.
>>
>> So my question is, what is the correct spindle length for a
>> 1x5, non gear-case setup? I'm trying to keep it easy by
>> looking at TDC and Bayliss bottom brackets as it seems those
>> are the most readily available. However, I would love any
>> input (as well as a spare bottom bracket anyone may have
>> lying around).
>>
>> Thanks All.
>>
>> Sean Flores
>> San Francisco, CA
>> USA