Re: [CR] Fiamme Yellow Label Spoke Tension

(Example: Framebuilders:Doug Fattic)

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From: "Howard Darr" <hdarr@embarqmail.com>
To: <billydavid13@comcast.net>, 'Longleaf Bicycles' <longleafbicycles@gmail.com>
References: <50f0d99f0908211229g6fe05112p5d26571820184480@mail.gmail.com> <843048843.2779091250892056857.JavaMail.root@sz0035a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
In-Reply-To: <843048843.2779091250892056857.JavaMail.root@sz0035a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 19:44:46 -0400
Thread-Index: Acoiqt4hmxJpzeaHSTarm00VUFIbhwADMfhg
Cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
Subject: Re: [CR] Fiamme Yellow Label Spoke Tension


My experience is that careless tensioning can give you a flat spot pretty easily.

I usually don't do more than 1/4 turn at a time once the slack is taken up . . . and if it is a rear wheel . . . the dishing is established.

Be more concerned with round first. High spots are easy to squash a little.

My preference is to have the strongest wheel possible which means the wheel will end up like the un-tensioned rim. I don't like some spokes loose and others nipple rounding tight.

This is vintage! Round and true is vastly over rated. Get it close enough that the brakes or speed modulators will stop you in the same zip code you applied them in.

Go pluck a more modern 36 hole spoke and that will probably be too tense. Relax! Get them tight enough to not click. That is off topic anyways.

There is a scene in the triplets of Belleville where Madame uses a tuning fork. I suppose if you have a model of the Eiffel tower it would be a great guide.

Other wise visit a friend with a good wheel and pluck away. Maybe someone like Earl Young could give you the park spoke tension tool specification.

Always wanted one.

Howard Darr
Kinsman OH USA