Re: [CR] Gearing ratios

(Example: Framebuilding:Tubing:Falck)

From: "ternst" <ternst1@cox.net>
To: Stephen James <sj52@hotmail.com>, <kenfreeman096@gmail.com>, <ehbusch@bellsouth.net>
References: <633837670909051728x279b7c26g1405f872a8d12900@mail.gmail.com> <000301ca2eed$6bf42650$6400a8c0@OFFICE1> <7543b4a40909060650l28c0faa2i2d2300e4cee56b59@mail.gmail.com> <BAY123-W135BEC11ABA37E328F2774D1EC0@phx.gbl>
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 12:20:28 -0700
Cc: Classic Rendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
Subject: Re: [CR] Gearing ratios


Hey guys, these tips are all good. The key to faster riding has always been your RPM's. It's not how big a ratio you think you can push/need but how nicely you can pedal/spin your gear. The top guys all are riding in the 90 to 105 average RPM's. This maximizes efficiency and saves energy while getting there fastest. If you ride too high a ratio your energy starts to flag and your speed starts dropping a little bit at a time. The key to cycling is speed/power, not power/speed. As you get into training, you get your leg speed up while you're getting your endurance and then start to raise ratios while giving as little leg speed up as possible. Your entire body will fair better and you will be able to ride many more years happily. This approach is over 100 years old and hasn't changed. John Howard was OK when he said 52's are for wimps, but it's because the guys were getting better and needed the added tooth or two to get the top end up but they were all riding the good RPM's The 11 and 12 tooth cogs are realy top end and fast MPH type ratios, designed for 30 + MPH. If you have real pedal motion with a 11/12 cog you will be going 50-60 MPH on any decent downhill. Sometimes when guys want to rest legs and are tucked in the field being sucked along by the slipstream, they will put it in the high cog and idle along, then when they get closer to front and do their stint at the pace pulling they will shift down and use the correct RPM gear for the speed at hand(foot) and then swing off and drift back into the field. It's easy to fall into the misconception that the big ratio is the way of shining lite and speed, but the wise ol' man at the hilltop knows that smooth fast cruising is done at the proper ratio and RPM's with the proper preparation and at the rite time and condition.
Ted Ernst
Palos Verdes Estates
CA USA


----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen James
To: kenfreeman096@gmail.com
Cc: Classic Rendezvous
Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 6:53 AM
Subject: Re: [CR] Gearing ratios



>
> Hi Brad,
>
> I ride a one-speed, so I'm biased :) But, I agree that you should work
> on raising your cadence (rpms) before worrying about getting a bigger
> gear --in this case. It's true that you can keep your rpms down --yet go
> faster-- if you put on a bigger chainring or use a freewheel (OT) with
> fewer teeth. However, ime, huge gears were only needed for track sprints
> and descending very steep hills. I needed a huge gear because I ran out
> of rpms. On a flat road, though, it's relatively easy to keep up with
> traffic using a lower gear. In fact, on the street, ime, lower was
> better --but my rides were never completely flat.
>
> So, I guess I'd say that you need a bigger gear if you've really run out
> of rpms.
> Not trying to lecture, just reminiscing. I remember John Howard quoted as
> saying something like '52t chainrings are for wimps', but I seem to recall
> an emphasis on lower gearing and "suppleness" earlier on. I was wondering
> if there is/was an "OT" style of riding the gears on these OT bikes.
> Maybe the ideas of the 80s differed from those of te 70s, etc.
>
> regards,
> Steve James
> Bronx, NYC, USoA
>
>
>
> ps. apologies to eh for the duplicate.