Re: [CR] freewheel disassembly photos and adivce

(Example: Events:Cirque du Cyclisme:2007)

From: "Andrew R Stewart" <>
To: ryan hildebrand <>, <>
References: <>
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 15:32:00 -0500
Subject: Re: [CR] freewheel disassembly photos and adivce

Ryan- Sorry but only advice here, no links to photos. You say the bearing is cracked. What do you really mean? Is the outer threaded on race cracked? Or one of the actual balls (and how did you figure that out, X-ray vision)? The outer race can crack during the removal attempts. The pin holes make a thin spot on the race and the impact needed to break free the race can crack it. Remember it is left hand threaded. The easiest way to hold the FW is on a hub/wheel. I would make sure the FW has been off first , lube the mounting threads well and only hand tighten the FW before using a small drift punch (nail set) and hold the punch at as low an angle that will still get purchase on the pin hole. The hammer whack will be a strong one, not quite nail driving but might get close. Once loose the race might still hang up on mangled FW core removal notches. The FW tool prongs often chews up the core's receiving notches and the race has to unthread past this area on it's way off. In fact if the core notches were striped/chewed up I would not bother repairing the FW. Once off the race will likely have a few paper thin shim "washers" between it and the core. These are how you adjust the bearings when reassembled. More shims is a looser adjustment. BTW FWs are usually set up with a bit of loose play (unlike hubs and such) and at least one bearing gap in the ring of balls. You can use light weight grease to hold the balls while reassembling. Don't use more then a thin surface film of grease around the paws and ratchet teeth, Phil oil is perfect here. Take care when rethreading the race. The balls are easily dislodged from the cup surface and can jam up inside. The race will need a similar whack to set it tight. The bearing adjustment is only valid after this step so sometimes you'll need to redo the shims to fine tune the FW's ability to spin and not catch. Regina was one of the worse brands to do rebuilds on. Atoms, Normandy/Maillard, Sun Tour, Shimano were all easier to rebuild and needed it less too. I had a few bikes with Reginas back in the day and would replace the FW sooner then other parts. Too bad I don't still have them now. What I really miss is the hard sided suitcase that was filled with 50-60lbs of Regina cogs, bodies and repair parts and tools that Geo Rennie Bike Shop had then.

----- Original Message -----
From: ryan hildebrand
Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 1:52 PM
Subject: [CR] freewheel disassembly photos and adivce

> Dear all,
> I seem to recall that a while ago (i.e., within the past 2 years or
> so) someone on the list disassembled a FW and shared pictures of the
> process. I've been trying to find the post in the archives, but
> haven't had any luck. Can anyone point me to the post or to another
> (preferably on-line) source? I ask because I am considering attempting
> to replace a cracked bearing in a Regina FW and am wondering what I'm
> getting myself into. Advice on this, too, would be appreciated,
> particularly if it includes information not contained in Sheldon's
> mini-article on servicing freewheels.
> Thanks,
> Ryan Hildebrand
> Austin TX
> _______________________________________________

Andrew R Stewart
Rochester, NY