Re: [CR] freewheel disassembly photos and adivce

(Example: Framebuilders:Norman Taylor)

From: "Andrew R Stewart" <>
To: ryan hildebrand <>, <>
References: <> <CB94630DE1D94ECAA1A207E8AC3260BF@ARSPC> <>
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 16:05:20 -0500
Subject: Re: [CR] freewheel disassembly photos and adivce

Ryan- I assume that you have tried to flush solvents and lube through the FW already. The rough and uneven spin is one of the Regina trademarks. Like Raleigh bikes, if you got a good one it was real nice but it was too likely that you'd get a poor one.

This is what I would do. First note how much looseness/slop the current bearing adjustment has. Also check the amount of coasting wobble (when coasting the FW seems to wave or wobble independent of bearing slop) that can be common. Then normally I would remove and reinstall the FW on the hub (as mentioned in my last post) but it sounds like yours is frozen on the shell so go onto the race removal steps. Clean up the interior parts and surfaces. Are the balls shinny? If not replace. Reassemble (don't forget a ball or two gap) and see how it works. Don't expect to see much "damage" inside. The best possibility will be rusted/rough balls. Try to duplicate the slop/adjustment that you had before (assuming it felt normal before). If it doesn't work out that you've made the roughness/gravel go away then take it apart and use a pipe wrench on the core to remove it.

----- Original Message -----
From: ryan hildebrand
To: Andrew R Stewart

<> Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 3:45 PM Subject: Re: [CR] freewheel disassembly photos and adivce

> Andrew,
> Thank you for all of this, I appreciate it. I assume I am dealing with
> a shot ball bearing because it sounds and sort of feels like the FW is
> filled with gravel when I back pedal. It emits a generally "broken"
> sound when coasting, as well. Someone please let me know if I am
> misdiagnosing this. Whatever the problem, I suppose I have little to
> lose by disassembling the FW as it would need to be done in order to
> be destructively removed.
> Ryan Hildebrand
> Austin TX
> On Wed, Nov 18, 2009 at 2:32 PM, Andrew R Stewart
> <> wrote:
>> Ryan- Sorry but only advice here, no links to photos. You say the bearing
>> is
>> cracked. What do you really mean? Is the outer threaded on race cracked?
>> Or
>> one of the actual balls (and how did you figure that out, X-ray vision)?
>> The
>> outer race can crack during the removal attempts. The pin holes make a
>> thin
>> spot on the race and the impact needed to break free the race can crack
>> it.
>> Remember it is left hand threaded. The easiest way to hold the FW is on a
>> hub/wheel. I would make sure the FW has been off first , lube the
>> mounting
>> threads well and only hand tighten the FW before using a small drift
>> punch
>> (nail set) and hold the punch at as low an angle that will still get
>> purchase on the pin hole. The hammer whack will be a strong one, not
>> quite
>> nail driving but might get close. Once loose the race might still hang up
>> on
>> mangled FW core removal notches. The FW tool prongs often chews up the
>> core's receiving notches and the race has to unthread past this area on
>> it's
>> way off. In fact if the core notches were striped/chewed up I would not
>> bother repairing the FW. Once off the race will likely have a few paper
>> thin
>> shim "washers" between it and the core. These are how you adjust the
>> bearings when reassembled. More shims is a looser adjustment. BTW FWs are
>> usually set up with a bit of loose play (unlike hubs and such) and at
>> least
>> one bearing gap in the ring of balls. You can use light weight grease to
>> hold the balls while reassembling. Don't use more then a thin surface
>> film
>> of grease around the paws and ratchet teeth, Phil oil is perfect here.
>> Take
>> care when rethreading the race. The balls are easily dislodged from the
>> cup
>> surface and can jam up inside. The race will need a similar whack to set
>> it
>> tight. The bearing adjustment is only valid after this step so sometimes
>> you'll need to redo the shims to fine tune the FW's ability to spin and
>> not
>> catch. Regina was one of the worse brands to do rebuilds on. Atoms,
>> Normandy/Maillard, Sun Tour, Shimano were all easier to rebuild and
>> needed
>> it less too. I had a few bikes with Reginas back in the day and would
>> replace the FW sooner then other parts. Too bad I don't still have them
>> now.
>> What I really miss is the hard sided suitcase that was filled with
>> 50-60lbs
>> of Regina cogs, bodies and repair parts and tools that Geo Rennie Bike
>> Shop
>> had then.
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "ryan hildebrand"
>> <>
>> To: <>
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 1:52 PM
>> Subject: [CR] freewheel disassembly photos and adivce
>>> Dear all,
>>> I seem to recall that a while ago (i.e., within the past 2 years or
>>> so) someone on the list disassembled a FW and shared pictures of the
>>> process. I've been trying to find the post in the archives, but
>>> haven't had any luck. Can anyone point me to the post or to another
>>> (preferably on-line) source? I ask because I am considering attempting
>>> to replace a cracked bearing in a Regina FW and am wondering what I'm
>>> getting myself into. Advice on this, too, would be appreciated,
>>> particularly if it includes information not contained in Sheldon's
>>> mini-article on servicing freewheels.
>>> Thanks,
>>> Ryan Hildebrand
>>> Austin TX
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Andrew R Stewart
>> Rochester, NY

Andrew R Stewart
Rochester, NY