Re: [CR] Restoration: Alloy parts. Question?

(Example: Framebuilders:Mario Confente)

From: "John" <jtperry330@me.com>
To: <deoreo@raex.com>
In-Reply-To: <2344.24.140.152.37.1259769335.squirrel@newmail.core.com>
References: <500075.24808.qm@web82208.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 10:16:43 -0700
Cc: Jerome & Elizabeth Moos <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net>, classicrendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
Subject: Re: [CR] Restoration: Alloy parts. Question?


Great advice Steve! But also: -Use a shop apron; canvas or leather. should something get thrown, it helps lots. Jeans, no shorts. -A respirator is de-rigor, as the cotton wheels throw off allot of lint and its hard scratching your nose with those big leather gloves. And NOT one a those white make believe jobs either! A good heavy duty one w/ changeable filters. Ear protection is nice too. -Long sleeves also; to keep all the lint and compound off (I think the compound is mostly wax with the abrasives mixed in). -www.eastwood.com is a great source for automotive restoration supplies and is a great catalogue to look through to get ideas on polishing and polishing supplies etc.

enjoy,

John Pergolizzi San Diego been there, done that. LOTS!

On Dec 2, 2009, at 8:55 AM, deoreo@raex.com wrote:
>
>
> Unless you are going to do a ton of polishing get a buffer from Harbor
> Freight:
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40668
>
> Then get some buffing wheels, at least 4 of them, stack two per
> side:
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=39406
>
> Then look for compound at your local store, or get it at McMaster
> Carr:
> Search for Buffing Bars:
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#=4ra2xd
>
> Start with Tripoli, White and Red rouge for aluminum.
> Start
> with something like a stem to see how the cut and color compounds
> respond.
> Wear safety glasses and gloves, if you're not careful the
> buffer can throw a part across the room in a blink of an eye.
>
> Steve DeOreo
> North Canton, Ohio, USA
>
>
>
>>
> Kurt makes a good point in this post from a couple of weeks ago, and
> I've
>
>> decided I really should get a buffing wheel, but never having
> owned one
>> before, I'm not sure what to buy. I saw one at Sears
> over Thanksgiving
>> for about $100, which seems cheap, so I
> wonder if it is any good. What do
>> others use? I'm also not
> familiar with the various wheels and buffing
>> compounds used.
> Can someone fill me in and perhaps provide links to
>> online
> stores that sell these supplies? I have a few projects involving
>> some crankarms that need to be cleaned up and polished, and I'd
> like to do
>> it an easier way.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Jerry Moos
>> Big Spring, Texas, USA
>>
>
>>
>>
>> --- On Fri, 11/13/09, Kurt Sperry
> <haxixe@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
> From: Kurt
> Sperry <haxixe@gmail.com>
>>> Subject: Re: [CR]
> Restoration: Alloy parts. Question?
>>> To: "Norm and Val
> Lafleur" <nvlafleur@verizon.net>
>>> Cc:
> "classicrendezvous" <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
>>> Date: Friday, November 13, 2009, 10:34 AM
>>>
> Polishing unanodized aluminum to a
>>> mirror finish doesn't
> require a lot
>>> of sanding steps. You can quickly sand
> out any
>>> pitting or scratches
>>> with 220 grit
> dry then go straight to the buffing
>>> wheel. Start with
>
>>> bobbing compound on a cotton wheel and follow that with
>>> Fabuluster.
>>> Use two different wheels, the
> polishing compounds are
>>> available
>>> through
> any large jewelry supply house. You can get a less
>>> bright
> but
>>> shinier than satin finish by stopping after the bobbing
>
>>> step. I
>>> always cringe when I read
> people describing how they went
>>> through
>>>
> multiple hand sanding steps over hours to get what is
>>>
> probably not as
>>> good a polish as I can get in a few
> minutes. Careful
>>> with the buffing
>>>
> wheel though, it's dangerous.
>>>
>>> Kurt Sperry
>
>>> Bellingham, Washington
>>> USA
>>>
>
>>> 2009/11/13 Norm and Val Lafleur
> <nvlafleur@verizon.net>:
>>>> The
> current thread on restoration got me thinking
>>> about
> restoration of alloy parts. I enjoy salvaging
>>> scratched up
> seat posts, oxidized brake calipers, stems ,
>>> hubs etc. For
> the most part I leave anodized parts alone.
>>> For non
> anodized parts I wet sand with grits up to 2500 and
>>> buff
> with Tripoli compound and white rouge. What I'm
>>> wondering
> is there any equivalency scale to correlate the
>>> various
> abrasive media. Is Tripoli finer than 2500 grit
>>> paper,
> where do the steel wool grades "0", "00" etc fit in.
>
>>>>
>>>> It would be helpful to know
> the equivalency in order
>>> to know when to stop the tedious
> sanding and move on to the
>>> easier to apply buffing
> compounds. Does such a correlation
>>> scale exist? For those
> of you who also polish parts what
>>> have you learned? What do
> you use for a mirror finish? For a
>>> satin finish? Opinions
> welcome.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
> Norm Lafleur
>>>> Ashfield, Massachusetts
>>>> USA
>>>>
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>>
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