Just went down and measured. +/- 66.8, so call it 67mm. I can always add spacers if need be to get it up to 68mm.
Sean Flores SF, CA
On Jul 19, 2009, at 4:07 PM, ternst wrote:
> I didn't catch all the posts, but isn't it first important to know
> the bearing shoulder width and cupwall thickness along with the L &
> R lengths to see what will really fit?
> With BB shells going from say 65mm to 74mm I would suspect that
> would be the first look to, to determine the proper size needed for
> crank clearance on either side and chainline.
> Ted Ernst
> Palos Verdes Estates
> CA USA
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerome & Elizabeth Moos" <email@example.com
> To: <firstname.lastname@example.org>; "Sean Flores" <email@example.com
> Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 2:42 PM
> Subject: Re: [CR] Cottered Bottom Brackets Have My Head Spinning
>> Well, here is what I know. I recently purchased several TDC
>> cottered BB axles to use with a Stronglight 3-arm crank in a 1954
>> French-made Duravia/Mecadural Aluminum frame. Two different
>> models, between 135 and 137.5 mm overall length. This works nicely
>> with the Stronglight with double chainrings.
>> I have a Stronglight (I think) cottered axle marked 127 which
>> measures just a bit more than 127mm overall length. This axle was
>> too short for a Stronglight crank with double rings, so I assume
>> 127 must be for a single chainring. So I would guess you will need
>> an axle with an overall length something close to 127mm, at least
>> for the Stronglight, not sure about the Williams.
>> BTW, if you use the Stronglight cranks, be aware there are two
>> different versions, the French version and the English version.
>> The English version is marked "A" = Anglais on the arm and it uses
>> an English axle, which had a different diameter than a French
>> cottered axle. This was why I had to buy the TDC axles to use with
>> my Stronglight cranks, most of which were the English version.
>> BTW, did final installation today of the Stronglight cottered
>> cranks on the Duravia, using a Park cotter pin press. This tool is
>> really worth having if you deal with cottered cranks.
>> Jerry Moos
>> Big Spring, Texas, USA
>> --- On Sun, 7/19/09, Sean Flores <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:
>>> From: Sean Flores <email@example.com>
>>> Subject: [CR] Cottered Bottom Brackets Have My Head Spinning
>>> To: firstname.lastname@example.org
>>> Date: Sunday, July 19, 2009, 3:12 PM
>>> I'm in the process of building up a
>>> 1950's Freddie Grubb frameset and would like to use era
>>> appropriate cottered cranks. This will be built up as a 1x5,
>>> with a single, non gear-case chainwheel in the front. I'm
>>> deciding between a williams 5 pin or a Stronglight 3 arm
>>> competition cottered chainset.
>>> I've been looking at both Sutherlands, the Bikelist
>>> Archives and the chart on Peter Underwood's Classic
>>> Lightweights site. I can't make heads or tails of the
>>> archive posts and the chart on Classic Lightweights has some
>>> major discrepancies when compared to the one in
>>> So my question is, what is the correct spindle length for a
>>> 1x5, non gear-case setup? I'm trying to keep it easy by
>>> looking at TDC and Bayliss bottom brackets as it seems those
>>> are the most readily available. However, I would love any
>>> input (as well as a spare bottom bracket anyone may have
>>> lying around).
>>> Thanks All.
>>> Sean Flores
>>> San Francisco, CA