Re: [CR] SturmeyO'Philes Pay Attention

Example: Production Builders:Frejus

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2010 20:27:45 -0500
From: Harvey Sachs <>
To: <>, <>, Classic Rendezvous <>
Subject: Re: [CR] SturmeyO'Philes Pay Attention

In all innocence, when I was faced with this issue with my S/A ASC some years ago, I just substituted a later 3-slot driver, which was plug-and-play, and gives me a wide selection of cogs. And easy substitution (just a snap-ring holds it on). And easy chain line adjustment, since it uses dished sprockets and spacers. There may be a slight bit more play on the old ASC, but it's never going to be much tighter. And, I can't guarantee that this will work on a Hercules or BSA.

harvey sachs mcLean va ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Mark Stonich wrote: To remove a cog from a threaded driver; 1. Remove the right cone and lift out the driver with the cog attached. 2. Place a piece of 5/16" or 1/4" bar stock or plate in a vice 3. Slip the driver splines onto the bar. 4. Remove the cog with a chain whip. 5. After re-installing the driver, cone, RH cone locking washer and locknut, always adjust bearing play with the left cone.

Craig Montgomery wrote:

>> A few years ago a friend closed down his shop and gave me a
   >> few hubgears. One is a Hercules "B Type 5". Now mind you, the spoke
   >> holes show that it had been built up, but as I was playing around
   >> with the thing and took out the guts it appeared to be pristine:
   >> perfectly clean, dry, and with no wear patterns anywhere (didn't
   >> have my glasses on though). Decided I'd build it up as a "touring"
   >> wheel on a Sun CR 18 590 rim. The problem is that it is a screw-on
   >> cog. Does anyone know the trick for getting that cog off? Does it
   >> have to built up first? Or should I just stay away from the bugger
   >> and build up the '54 AW instead? If you know of any history of the
   >> animal I'd be interested also.