In all innocence, when I was faced with this issue with my S/A ASC some years ago, I just substituted a later 3-slot driver, which was plug-and-play, and gives me a wide selection of cogs. And easy substitution (just a snap-ring holds it on). And easy chain line adjustment, since it uses dished sprockets and spacers. There may be a slight bit more play on the old ASC, but it's never going to be much tighter. And, I can't guarantee that this will work on a Hercules or BSA.
harvey sachs mcLean va ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Mark Stonich wrote: To remove a cog from a threaded driver; 1. Remove the right cone and lift out the driver with the cog attached. 2. Place a piece of 5/16" or 1/4" bar stock or plate in a vice 3. Slip the driver splines onto the bar. http://bikesmithdesign.com/SA/driver-bar.jpg 4. Remove the cog with a chain whip. 5. After re-installing the driver, cone, RH cone locking washer and locknut, always adjust bearing play with the left cone.
Craig Montgomery wrote:
>> A few years ago a friend closed down his shop and gave me a
>> few hubgears. One is a Hercules "B Type 5". Now mind you, the spoke
>> holes show that it had been built up, but as I was playing around
>> with the thing and took out the guts it appeared to be pristine:
>> perfectly clean, dry, and with no wear patterns anywhere (didn't
>> have my glasses on though). Decided I'd build it up as a "touring"
>> wheel on a Sun CR 18 590 rim. The problem is that it is a screw-on
>> cog. Does anyone know the trick for getting that cog off? Does it
>> have to built up first? Or should I just stay away from the bugger
>> and build up the '54 AW instead? If you know of any history of the
>> animal I'd be interested also.