>>Craig Montgomery wrote:
>> A few years ago a friend closed down his shop and gave me a
>>few hubgears. One is a Hercules "B Type 5". <snip> The problem is that it is a screw-on
>>cog. Does anyone know the trick for getting that cog off? <snip>>
>>Mark Stonich wrote:
>>To remove a cog from a threaded driver; 1. Remove the right cone and
>>lift out the driver with the cog attached. 2. Place a piece of 5/16" or
>>1/4" bar stock or plate in a vice 3. Slip the driver splines onto the
>>bar. http://bikesmithdesign.com/SA/driver-bar.jpg 4. Remove the cog with
>>a chain whip. 5. After re-installing the driver, cone, RH cone locking
>>washer and locknut, always adjust bearing play with the left cone.
> ---- Harvey Sachs <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:
> I just substituted a later 3-slot driver, which was
>>plug-and-play, and gives me a wide selection of cogs. And easy
>>substitution (just a snap-ring holds it on). And easy chain line
>>adjustment, since it uses dished sprockets and spacers. <snip> I can't guarantee that this will work on a Hercules or BSA.
> Craig Montgomery responded:
> Good idea Harvey. I totally forgot about this option. According to Hadland the drivers should be interchangeable because most of these clones were made by Sturmey. But first I think I'll try Mark's route, only because I want to play around with spinning on two 3/32" cogs and turning it into a six speed with derailleur. If that doesn't work I'll try the same thing with a regular driver. I may need to lower the gears a bit. <snip> +++++++++++++++++++++ A last note? If memory serves, and I don't feel like checking it myself, the dish of the S/A 3-slot sprockets is about right for spacing a pair of cogs, if they are mounted back-to-back. Might be worth checking. For less bad shifting, that solution would probably require grinding off the tops of the pointed cogs before doing real riding.