Re: [CR] To clear coat or not?


Example: Bike Shops:R.E.W. Reynolds

From: John <jtperry330@me.com>
To: Ron Titensor <roleti40@yahoo.com>
In-reply-to: <977564.63976.qm@web111722.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2011 13:43:39 +0100
References: <977564.63976.qm@web111722.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
Subject: Re: [CR] To clear coat or not?


All, In my experience (granted from 25 years ago) spar varnish is amber yellow and when applied over decals, will give light colors a more amber tone which darkens over time. Short time. I would suggest testing on a not important piece first and judging the results. Perhaps spar varnish has changed since then, I don't know. The ol' stuff just about never dries through and through, that's why it's perfect for wooden boats; it remains pliable, it stretches and doesn't crack w/ the sun. Try denting it w/ your thumb nail and see what happens. My own stuff goes to Joe Bell including my 73 Benotto track I raced on and a 73 Colnago signed by The Man. I know that the Spanish blue Irene Ferrari Masi/ Confente is in for decal clear w/ Bayliss. Please confirm first, but I think it's imron for the both of them. And clear is clear.

enjoy,

John Pergolizzi Torino, Italy

On Jan 10, 2011, at 8:29 AM, Ron Titensor wrote:
> Kevin, regarding the clear coating of decals, this is what has
> worked for me. Having restored a few Ducatis and a couple of
> bicycles over the years, I have found that the lacquer or enamel
> based water transfer decals usually chipped and pealed in short
> order. After a new decal has set...say 24 hours, I brush on glossy
> marine spar varnish. DON'T USE ANY LACQUER OR ENAMEL BASED CLEAR,
> YOU WILL LIFT THE DECAL. The spar varnish dries slow...over
> night...and may still be tacky in the morning. The slow drying time
> allows you to go slow and take care. You may want to do one decal
> at a time. It's easy to varnish one decal then move on to another
> decal, grabing the frame at the first coated decal...I've done
> that!!! I use a quality artist brush, soft bristles, about three
> quarter inch long, quarter inch wide and with a square end. Don't
> use a cheap brush, you'll be lifting bristles for hours. I usually
> brush the varnish about a sixteenth
> inch past the decal's edge. The varnish gives fairly good
> protection...(lt works on wooden boats). I wait at least a month
> before I use any wax. Practice first...on some magazine paper or
> such. And test it on the paint first...say under the bottom
> bracket. Caution, I'm not telling you to do this, but It works for
> me. I would not clear coat (or varnish) the whole frame, just ride
> and handle irt with care. If you want to discuss this further, you
> can email me at roleti40@yahoo.com. Hope this helps.
>
> Ron Titensor
> Bellingham, WA
> U.S.A.