At 10/20/2007 06:26 PM -0400, Doug Fattic wrote:
>The cut off needs to be long enough above where the taper stops
>so the sleeve is long enough so it can have enough support in the old
>steerer. The sleeve will need to stick an equal distance into the new
>steerer. Now this sleeve needs to be down far enough from the top so it
>doesn't interfere with the insertion of the stem. If those conditions can
>be met, then part of the old steerer can be cut off and a new longer section
>of steerer brazed back on.
Doug, Sounds good, but how long is "Long enough" for the overlap between sleeve and steerer? Do you use silver or bronze/brass? Do you drill any holes into the steerer halves to feed filler into?
The steerer on my 1957 Raleigh RRA Moderne has two places where the conical wedge stem was tightened so much the steerer isn't just bulged, but creased. It has the Raleigh tubular fork crown and I don't see any way to non-destructively remove the chromed "thimbles" from the ends of the crown. So, just replacing the steerer doesn't seem to be an option.
Fortunately the steerer is fairly long, (23" frame) and I need my stems as high as they'll go. I'll have to decide whether to use a steerer from a Raleigh donor fork to get 26tpi threading or go to 24tpi and use a, much better, modern headset.
BTW Thursday I replaced a steerer on a rather unique "fork".
http://bikesmithdesign.com/
Mark Stonich;
BikeSmith Design & Fabrication
5349 Elliot Ave S. - Minneapolis. MN 55417
Ph. (612) 824-2372 http://bikesmithdesign.com
http://mnhpva.org